camino de santiago – flcchn Staging https://staging.flcchn.com Freelance marketer & travel content creator Mon, 14 Apr 2025 13:43:35 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9 https://staging.flcchn.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/cropped-flcchn-favicon-32x32.png camino de santiago – flcchn Staging https://staging.flcchn.com 32 32 How to Choose the Best Shoes for the Camino de Santiago https://staging.flcchn.com/best-shoes-for-the-camino-de-santiago/ https://staging.flcchn.com/best-shoes-for-the-camino-de-santiago/#respond Sun, 28 Apr 2024 00:30:28 +0000 https://staging.flcchn.com/?p=4584 See the factors to consider to choose the best shoes for walking the Camino de Santiago and get tips on how to avoid potential footwear issues.

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What shoes should you wear on the Camino de Santiago? Choosing the right shoe is one of the most important things you’ll need to figure out when planning for the Camino. After all, you’ll be putting hundreds of miles on your feet. Getting blisters, pain, or injuries can not only be frustrating to deal with, but also force you to end your Camino early. That’s why you need shoes that are supportive, stable, comfortable, and breathable.

Before we jump in, I want to stress that there’s no one-size-fits-all shoe. What works for others, including shoes on any “top” or “best” lists, may not work for you. While this guide can help you narrow down your choices, if you’re still unsure about what shoe will work best for you, I recommend going to your local sporting goods store, asking an employee, and trying on several shoes.

Factors to consider when choosing a shoe

  • Terrain: Every Camino is made up of different terrain. They generally include a mix of urban walking, such as on cobblestone paths, roads, and sidewalks, and dirt trails, although some Camino routes feature more loose dirt, rocks, and elevation. Regular running shoes, trail running shoes, lightweight hiking boots, and hiking sandals will all work. None of the Caminos are technical enough where you need to have heavy-duty hiking boots.
  • Weather: Weather also plays a part in footwear choice. If you’re walking during a rainy period of time, you’ll need a shoe that can either withstand water or dry extremely quickly. Think waterproof shoes or sandals with grip, since you’ll also need to be prepared for muddy trails.
  • Temperature: The season that you’re walking in will affect how breathable your shoe needs to be. During the summer, you’ll want shoes with air flow. These will tend to be running shoes, trail runners, and hiking sandals. You probably want to stay away from waterproof shoes since they typically get hot. On the other hand, waterproof shoes are a better fit for the winter because they’ll keep your feet warmer and shield them from rain and snow.
  • Weight: The weight of your shoes matter. Lighter shoes are better since you’re already carrying the weight of your backpack. The last thing you need is footwear that also weighs you down. Of course, if you’re a frequent hiker who’s used to the weight of a heavier hiking boot, this may not be applicable.
  • Fit: When choosing the size of your shoes, keep in mind that your feet will swell. Your shoes should have enough room where you can stick a finger between your heel and the back of the shoe. This ensures that the shoe won’t feel tight as your feet swell on long walking days and in the summer. Make sure that you also account for the socks that you’ll be using. If you plan on using thick socks, you may need to go up a half or full size to accommodate them.
  • Familiarity: If you’re a runner or hiker and already have a shoe that works for you, go with it. This is the easiest way to choose the right shoe for walking the Camino de Santiago. You’re already familiar with the shoe and know for sure that it won’t cause you any problems, so why fix what isn’t broken? By going with a shoe you already use, you won’t need to test it out.

Popular shoe brands for the Camino de Santiago

  • ASICS (running and trail running shoes)
  • Altra (running, trail running, and hiking shoes)
  • Brooks (running and trail running shoes)
  • HOKA (running, trail running, and hiking shoes)
  • Keen (hiking sandals and shoes)
  • Merrell (trail running and hiking shoes)
  • Salomon (running, trail running, and hiking shoes)
  • Saucony (running and trail running shoes)
  • Teva (hiking sandals and shoes)
Top down view of blue ASICS running shoes and the Camino de Santiago gold shell marker on a stone street
I wore ASICS Gel-Kayano 27 running shoes for the Camino Portuguese

Best shoes for the Camino Portuguese

The Portuguese Camino de Santiago is mostly flat in comparison to other Caminos and consists largely of urban terrain, with a few dirt paths. Based on my experience, there’s no need to wear hiking boots for this route, even though I did see some people with them. Instead, I recommend running shoes or trail running shoes for the Camino Portugués.

I personally walked the Camino Portugués in ASICS Gel-Kayano running shoes and had no regrets. As a runner, I had been using this model for nearly 10 years without any problems, so I was confident that I wouldn’t experience any blisters or discomfort. The only time where I struggled with these running shoes was when I ran into some mud. Since they lack the grip of a trail runner, walking through mud was a bit slippery and I had to be very careful. This was a minor inconvenience though, as I only encountered rain for a few days when I walked the Portuguese Camino in September.

The importance of testing your shoes in advance

If you’re planning far in advance, I highly recommend buying your shoes and testing them out by going on long walks or hikes. This gives you an opportunity to truly put your shoes to the test, since doing a few strides in a store isn’t an accurate approximation for what you’ll experience when walking the Camino.

Some stores also have a generous timeframe for returns. For example, one of my local running shoe stores allows you to return shoes within 60 days of purchase – even if you’ve worn them. This is the ideal situation, since you can get your money back if your shoes don’t work out once you start testing them.

Should you bring multiple shoes?

Aside from your walking shoe of choice, you should at the very least bring a pair of sandals that can get wet. Once you arrive at your accommodation, you can switch into them and wear them in the communal showers if you’re staying at albergues or hostels. I opted for a pair of cheap flip flops, but others use hiking sandals like Teva sandals. After hours of being on your feet, switching to sandals gives your feet a breath of fresh air. Some pilgrims who bring hiking sandals will even switch shoes halfway through the day.

The vast majority of people bring only one pair of shoes for walking the Camino. However, it can be advantageous to bring two pairs instead. This is what I did, and having two pairs of the exact same shoes meant I could swap them out every day. It gives the cushioning in each pair a day to bounce back and puts less mileage on them overall, so your shoes won’t be completely worn out. If it rains, it also ensures that you won’t ever walk in damp shoes. Carrying two pairs of walking or hiking shoes isn’t going to be practical for most people due to the additional weight, so don’t worry about this if it’s not the right choice for you.

What to do if you’re having problems with your shoes on the Camino

Maybe you didn’t have a chance to try out your new shoes before starting the Camino. Even if you did test our your shoes ahead of time, maybe you’re experiencing unexpected issues with them. Once you’ve started the Camino, it can be difficult to simply get new shoes. So are you simply out of luck and need to deal with it, or can you fix the problems and not have to abandon your trip? Here are a few potential solutions that could help.

  • For blisters, treat them and either tape up your feet or apply Vaseline. Blisters are probably the most common shoe-related problem on the Camino. Treat your blisters by either taping them to prevent rubbing or pop, drain, and cover them with Compeed or a bandage. If you decide to pop your blisters, make sure anything you use is sanitized and that you keep the area clean to prevent infection. To prevent additional blisters, use tape to cover the areas of your feet that keep rubbing against your shoes. Another method that works is applying Vaseline to your feet before putting on socks.
  • Stretch before and after walking every day. If you’re feeling pain or tightness in your feet or legs, stretching might help and prevent injury or strain. You can easily look up stretches online based on where you’re feeling some discomfort. Consistency is key though, so make sure you stretch every day – even if everything feels okay.
  • Switch to hiking sandals if you have them. If you’re carrying hiking sandals, switching to them for a few days or even for the rest of your Camino can potentially solve any problems you’re having. This is the easiest solution for preventing additional blisters and reducing the pain of existing blisters.
  • Locate the nearest sporting goods store and consider making a detour to get new shoes. If your shoes are causing serious problems that can’t be solved with any of the other options listed here, you may just need to get new shoes and ditch your current ones. Look ahead at your Camino route and see if you’ll be passing through any cities or large towns that have sporting goods stores like Decathlon, a large sporting goods retailer that has many locations throughout Europe. (For Americans, Decathlon is similar to REI and Dick’s Sporting Goods.) If there’s a Decathlon that’s coming up soon on your Camino, this is your best option because you won’t have to deviate from your route. If not, then you’ll need to take public transportation or a taxi and then come back to the Camino route to pick up where you left off.
  • Take a day off. Sometimes the issue isn’t with your shoe, but rather the fact that you’re not used to walking such high mileage with the additional weight of a backpack. A good rest day where you’re off your feet might be all that you need. Don’t be afraid to take a day (or two) off, especially if you have some wiggle room in your schedule.

More resources for the Camino de Santiago

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Camino Portuguese Lisbon to Porto Route: Guide, Stages, and Map https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-portuguese-lisbon-to-porto-route-guide/ https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-portuguese-lisbon-to-porto-route-guide/#respond Sat, 17 Feb 2024 23:08:08 +0000 https://staging.flcchn.com/?p=4347 Learn what to expect when walking the Lisbon to Porto section of the Portuguese Camino de Santiago. Get access to a map, stages, and more.

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Although the Portuguese Camino Lisbon to Porto route is the first section of the Camino, far fewer pilgrims walk it compared to the coastal and central routes that start in Porto and end in Santiago de Compostela. This has resulted in less infrastructure and albergues for pilgrims, as well as longer stages. But don’t let that put you off from walking this route.

I actually really enjoyed the walk from Lisbon to Porto because there were less pilgrims. Seeing the same people over and over again created a strong sense of community. I was also able to walk with a group the entire time, because having less flexibility in how you break up this route results in everyone roughly following the same plan.

To help you have a great time walking this less popular path, this Camino Portugués Lisbon to Porto guide shows you how to break up the stages, provides a map of the route, and lists your best accommodation options.

📝 Note on accommodations listed

For every stage, I’ve listed some accommodation options. It’s important to note that this is not a complete list of all accommodations available in that town or city. I only show the best or most highly rated options to help you quickly narrow it down, and I prioritize cheaper accommodations such as albergues and hostels.

Overview of the Camino Portugués Lisbon to Porto route

  • Distance: 374.29 km or 232.57 miles
  • Number of days to complete: 13 to 14 days
  • Starting point: Lisbon, Portugal
  • End point: Porto, Portugal
  • Terrain: Farmland, vineyards, roads, towns, forests
  • Accommodation: Public and private albergues, hostels, guesthouses, and hotels

How long is the Lisbon to Porto route?

The distance for the Lisbon to Porto section of the Camino Portugués is 374.29 kilometers or 232.57 miles, and it takes 13 to 14 days to complete.

Should you start the Camino Portugués in Lisbon?

When deciding on where to start the Portuguese Camino de Santiago, there are three popular starting points: Lisbon, Porto, and Tui. Here are four questions to ask yourself that will help you figure out whether starting in Lisbon is right for you.

Do you have the time?

The first thing you should consider is simply if you have enough time to start from Lisbon. Beginning in Lisbon adds 13 to 14 days to the overall time that you’ll need to arrive in Santiago de Compostela. It already takes about two weeks to go from Porto to Santiago and few people have an additional two weeks to spare. So if you’re not able to take roughly a month for the Portuguese Camino, then you’ll need to either start in Porto or only walk the Lisbon to Porto section.

I walked the Camino Portugués during a 7.5-month solo trip, so I wasn’t in any rush. I had a lot of flexibility with the number of days I could take, and I didn’t have a date when I needed to reach Santiago de Compostela. Given that, I was confident that I could complete the entire route starting from Lisbon, even if anything unexpected happened during my walk, like injuries or sickness, that would extend the duration of my Camino.

How much do you care about the scenery?

I’m gonna be honest – the Lisbon to Porto route is not particularly scenic. And if you’re walking during the summer, parts of it can be sweaty and grueling. This stretch of the Camino Portugués mostly consists of walking through farmland, vineyards, industrial areas, and towns. The long dusty roads with little or no shade are the least enjoyable part of the Portuguese Camino.

The most breathtaking parts of the Portuguese Camino are past Porto on the coastal or central routes. As it sounds, the coastal route follows the northern coast of Portugal, giving you cooling ocean breezes and white sand beaches. The central route is filled with historic and charming towns, rolling hills, and lush forests. So if landscapes and views are a priority to you, you might want to skip straight to Porto.

Do you prefer to do the entire Portuguese route?

Everyone who does the Camino de Santiago is on their own journey, so there’s really no “right” or “best” way to do it. While Lisbon is the proper start of the Camino Portugués, most pilgrims actually don’t start walking from there. But if doing the full route is important to you, then you’ll need to begin in Lisbon.

If you don’t have enough time to walk from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela in one go, you can also break it up across multiple trips. When I walked the Camino Portugués, I met a pilgrim who had already gone from Porto to Santiago de Compostela another year and came back to complete the full route by going from Lisbon to Porto. Likewise, there are also pilgrims who walk from Lisbon to Porto one year and then eventually return to do Porto to Santiago.

I really wanted to do the full Portuguese route in one go, without any interruptions. As I mentioned above, I also had plenty of time. For those two reasons, I decided to start in Lisbon.

Have you walked the Camino de Santiago before?

Since I started the Portuguese Camino from Lisbon, I noticed some interesting differences between the Lisbon to Porto and Porto to Santiago sections. From Lisbon to Porto, the vast majority of the pilgrims had done at least one Camino before. This was my first Camino and I only met two other first-timers.

While this could be because very few people can take enough time off to do the entire Camino, I suspect that it might also be due to the fact that the Lisbon to Porto section is more challenging. With fewer pilgrims walking this part, there’s less infrastructure for them. Most notably, there are fewer towns to stay in, which means you’re forced to walk farther and have less flexibility to break up your walk into shorter stages. (When you look at the stages, you’ll see that there are many towns separated by more than 5 kilometers and lots of days where you’ll be walking more than 30 kilometers.) There’s also fewer accommodations available and no luggage transfer.

If you’ve never done the Camino, don’t let this deter you though. Plan ahead, do your research, always carry more than enough water if you’re walking during the summer, and you’ll be able to easily tackle this part of the Portuguese route.

When is the best time of year to walk the Lisbon to Porto route?

Late spring (May – June) and early fall (September – October) are the best months to walk the Lisbon to Porto section of the Camino Portugués. These are the shoulder seasons, when there’s slightly less pilgrims and the weather is the most enjoyable.

You’ll most likely want to avoid walking during the winter (December – February). Weather actually isn’t a concern at this time, since Portugal has mild winters. In Lisbon, the average high in winter is 58°F (14.5°C), and the average low is 47°F (8°C). The problem is that many albergues and some other accommodations on the Camino shut down during this time. With the Lisbon to Porto route already having less infrastructure than the rest of the Portuguese Camino, walking during the winter can make it even more challenging.

The summer also isn’t ideal, since this is the busiest time on the Camino. Students are on summer break and many people take time off from work. It can also get very hot as you head up north and away from the coast. Certain places, like Santarém, reach 90°F (32°C) or higher.

Where does the Portuguese Camino start in Lisbon?

Although most websites say that the Camino Portugués starts at the Lisbon Cathedral or Sé de Lisboa, that actually isn’t the true starting point. Instead, the Camino really starts at the Church of Saint James or Igreja de Santiago. Standing in front of the Church of Saint James, you’ll see a sign next to the front door that indicates you’re 610 km from Santiago de Compostela. You’ll also see a yellow arrow that’s been spray painted on the bottom-right of the front gate.

Follow the yellow arrow and you’re off! The Camino does bring you to the Lisbon Cathedral, where you can pop in and get the first stamp in your pilgrim’s passport. At the cathedral, you might even see other pilgrims starting their own journey.

Front of the Church of Saint James in Lisbon with an iron gate and a yellow Camino de Santiago arrow

Stages

Day 1: Lisbon/Lisboa to Alverca do Ribatejo (32.08 km)

DistanceTown
7.31 kmParque das Nações
5.40 kmSacavém
7.65 kmGranja
1.97 kmAlpriate
3.78 kmPóvoa de Santa Iria
5.97 kmAlverca do Ribatejo

Your first day on the Camino Portugués is a brutal 32 km. There isn’t a great way to split this up into shorter stages due to the lack of accommodation between Lisbon and Alverca do Ribatejo. Your only option is to walk 7.31 km to Parque Nações first and then walk 24.77 km to Alverca do Ribatejo the next day. Only doing 7 km isn’t enough to make it worth an entire stage in my opinion, so if you can, head straight to Alverca do Ribatejo on your first day instead.

Getting out of Lisbon can be difficult, as you’ll need to deal with narrow sidewalks, tourists, and Camino arrows that aren’t obviously placed. If you have time, I recommend going to the start of the route the day before and walk the first 2 or 3 km so that you can take your time in looking for arrows and make mistakes without the added weight of your backpack.

I did this walkthrough and was glad I did because I got lost the first time and had to backtrack a few times. When I officially started the Camino the next day, I didn’t have any issues.

Where to stay in Alverca do Ribatejo

Day 2: Alverca do Ribatejo to Azambuja (28.28 km)

DistanceTown
3.06 kmSobralinho
2.37 kmAlhandra
3.86 kmVila Franca de Xira
7.27 kmEstación de Carregado
4.27 kmVila Nova da Rainha
7.45 kmAzambuja

There are a few interesting things that you’ll come across on your way to Azambuja. The first is going up and through the Alverca train station. You can grab a coffee and pastel de nata here to kickstart your day if you’d like. From there, the stretch until you reach Alhandra is all on the side of roads.

At Alhandra, you’ll pass by the municipial swimming pool and move onto a rubbery, track-like path. I really enjoyed this part, since you have views of the Tagus River on one side and there are some cool murals that line the other side.

Vila Franca de Xira is a cute town with cobblestone sidewalks and roads and elegantly tiled buildings. This is likely too early in the day to stop for lunch, but Vila Franca de Xira is a great place to take a break. There are plenty of restaurants and grocery stores to choose from, and the town’s green spaces along the river are a lovely place to rest.

From there, you’ll pretty much follow the rail line to Azambuja, walking on paved roads and dusty, dirt paths.

Where to stay in Azambuja

Day 3: Azambuja to Santarém (32.53 km)

DistanceTown
10.70 kmReguengo
2.60 kmValada
3.40 kmPorto de Muge
13.87 kmOmnias
1.96 kmSantarém

Your day starts with expansive farm fields and brings you through a few small towns where you can get drinks and food, before finally dumping you back on to wide dirt roads. You’ve now traded corn fields for vineyards, but you’ve still got wide open landscapes with little shade.

When I walked the Portuguese Camino de Santiago in September, this stage was one of the most difficult because of how hot and sunny it was. If you’re walking during the warmer months, it’s really important that you take every opportunity to refill your water. There aren’t any services in the last 15 km, so you need to have enough water to reach Santarém.

As if the lack of shade wasn’t enough, Santarém is also located on a steep hill. Just when you’ve had enough, you’ll need to mentally prepare yourself for the climb into town. But once you reach it, it feels amazing. At this point, I recommend taking a seat at the first café or restaurant that you see and treating yourself to a drink before checking in at your accommodation.

Where to stay in Santarém

Day 4: Santarém to Golegã (30.96 km)

DistanceTown
1.54 kmRibeira de Santarém
9.94 kmVale de Figueira
11.97 kmAzinhaga
7.51 kmGolegã

Expect another day of dirt trails, albeit with more shade, when going from Santarém to Golegã. Getting out of Santarém is a nice downhill where you’ll walk through the Porta de Santiago, which is part of the city’s historic fortress. Enjoy the short, quiet walk through a lush forest, since the majority of today is through more fields.

After Azinhaga, the walk to Golegã mostly takes place on the slim shoulder of busy roads where Portuguese drivers zoom by. Be careful during this part, as the Portuguese drive fast. While some drivers will drift into the opposite lane if it’s empty so they can give you more room, not all will. If you’re with others, walk in a single-file line.

As you get closer to Golegã, you’ll pass through a tree-lined street with some seating and a kiosk on the side. If there’s good weather, you’ll most likely see groups of people hanging out under the shade. As long as you’re not in a rush to get to your accommodation, this is the perfect place to stop for a drink before you check in, shower, and do your laundry.

Where to stay in Golegã

Day 5: Golegã to Tomar (30.33 km)

DistanceTown
5.97 kmSão Caetano
2.93 kmVila Nova da Barquinha
1.93 kmAtalaia
6.92 kmGrou
1.51 kmAsseiceira
2.58 kmGuerreira
3.46 kmCasal Marmelo
5.03 kmTomar

Day 5 marks a pretty significant change in scenery. So if you’ve gotten tired of endless fields, this day will feel like a breath of fresh air. The landscape from Golegã to Tomar is an interesting mix of beautiful yet slightly creepy abandoned buildings, Portuguese suburbs, and woodland filled with eucalyptus trees.

Where to stay in Tomar

White and pink abandoned buildings covered in vines, with hedges in front and fallen leaves on the ground

Day 6: Tomar to Alvaiázere (32.19 km)

DistanceTown
3.22 kmPonte de Peniche
4.38 kmCasais
1.00 kmSoianda
2.33 kmCalvinos
1.29 kmChão das Eiras
1.36 kmCeras
0.75 kmEscoural
1.64 kmEspanha
0.47 kmPortela de Vila Verde
2.76 kmVila Verde (Areias)
3.00 kmTojal
3.29 kmCortiça
0.50 kmOuteiro da Cotovia
0.80 kmOuteirinho
1.66 kmFeteiras
1.15 kmFarroeira
2.59 kmAlvaiázere

The walk out of Tomar is incredibly peaceful. You’ll walk along a pebbly, dirt trail that runs alongside a small river. While you’ll go through some more forests this day, the majority of this stage is made up of quiet Portuguese neighborhoods. You’ll see the variety of produce that the Portuguese grow in their own yards. Some houses even raise animals, including chickens, sheep, and cows.

Although there is a lot of road walking this day, there are few cars.

Where to stay in Alvaiázere

Day 7: Alvaiázere to Rabaçal (31.58 km)

DistanceTown
2.38 kmLaranjeiras
1.13 kmVendas
3.01 kmVenda do Negro
2.86 kmCasal Soeiro
1.42 kmEmpeados
1.94 kmAnsião
3.93 kmNetos
2.31 kmVenda do Brasil
0.45 kmCasais da Granja
1.65 kmJunqueira (Alvorge)
1.61 kmAlvorge
5.11 kmRibeira de Alcalamouque
3.78 kmRabaçal

As you can see in the table above, you’ll walk through many towns to get to Rabaçal, which keeps this stage pretty interesting and well-serviced with multiple opportunities to stop for food, drinks, and bathrooms.

The highlight for me on this day was Restaurante O Lagareiro, where I had my first proper pilgrim’s meal. For only €8, this was one of the best meals I ate on the entire Portuguese Camino. It started with a vegetable soup and basket of bread, followed by a hearty plate of rice, pork, and beans, and ended with chocolate mousse and coffee. Everything was delicious, and the three-course lunch gave me the opportunity to take a proper rest.

Where to stay in Rabaçal

  • Albergue O Bonito (private albergue) – Albergue O Bonito is the only place to stay in Rabaçal, but you’ll be perfectly happy to spend a night here. The albergue is more spacious than most, has an attached café, a pool and outdoor lounge area, and a laundry machine. These features, along with the albergue’s cleanliness, create a pleasant rest stop for pilgrims. Read my full review on staying at Albergue O Bonito.

Day 8: Rabaçal to Coimbra (28.90 km)

DistanceTown
3.82 kmZambujal
2.17 kmFonte Coberta
1.91 kmPoço
3.12 kmConímbriga
1.10 kmValada (Coneixa-a-Nova)
0.77 kmAtadoa
0.90 kmAvessada
1.47 kmOrelhudo
0.69 kmRibeira de Casconha
1.45 kmCernache
1.42 kmPousada
3.14 kmPalheira
1.27 kmQuinta do Limoeiro
1.05 kmCruz dos Morouços
1.70 kmBordalo
2.92 kmCoimbra

Remember that long walk with little shade into Santarém on day 3? You haven’t left that behind. Day 8 is similar, although there’s more walking on pavement. This day isn’t particularly exciting until you get closer to Coimbra, which is when you’ll be rewarded with a gorgeous view of the city that used to be Portugal’s capital. Since you’ll be descending into Coimbra, you can’t miss it.

In my opinion, Coimbra is the best part of this day. The city is filled with history and endearing cobblestone streets. Among its many attractions, Coimbra is most famous for its university, which is one of the oldest in Europe. Having half a day there and tired legs meant I didn’t do any sightseeing, but Coimbra is one of several places on the Camino Portugués that I’d love to come back to.

Where to stay in Coimbra

Day 9: Coimbra to Sernadelo (24.83 km)

DistanceTown
5.92 kmAdémia de Baixo
1.96 kmFornos
1.27 kmTrouxemil
0.92 kmAdões
1.12 kmSargento Mõr
1.86 kmSanta Luzia
4.27 kmMala
1.29 kmLendiosa
1.28 kmVimieira
3.26 kmMealhada
1.68 kmSernadelo

Although this day starts out promising, with quiet roads flanked by fields, the occasional meadow of sheep, and some dirt trails, it eventually turns into all pavement and sidewalks. The best moments were the sunrise, which hit the morning mist just right, and the freshly made personal pizza that I had at Padaria Nossa Senhora das Candeias. It took 10 minutes for the bakery to make it, but it was worth the wait.

Where to stay in Sernadelo

Day 10: Sernadelo to Águeda (23.40 km)

DistanceTown
1.78 kmAlpalhão
1.47 kmAguim
3.45 kmAnadia
0.85 kmArcos (Anadia)
0.95 kmAlféloas
3.38 kmAvelãs de Caminho
2.00 kmSão João da Azenha
2.03 kmAguada de Baixo
0.75 kmLandiosa
4.47 kmBrejo
1.39 kmSardão
0.88 kmÁgueda

In my opinion, day 10 is largely uninteresting. The hills at the beginning give you a nice view of the surrounding area, which is made even nicer by sunrise. Aside from that, the rest of the stage consists of industrial areas, small towns, and roads that seem to never end.

Where to stay in Águeda

Day 11: Águeda to Outeirinho/Branca (25.90 km)

DistanceTown
0.58 kmParedes
0.64 kmVale da Erva
3.80 kmMourisca do Vouga
1.71 kmPedaçães
1.84 kmLamas do Vouga
1.41 kmLameiro
0.95 kmSerém de Cima
5.20 kmAlbergaria-a-Velha
1.72 kmUrgueiras
5.04 kmAlbergaria-a-Nova
1.89 kmLaginhas
0.51 kmEscusa
0.61 kmOuteirinho (Branca)

Day 11 is another day with a lot of road walking, although it’s broken up by a few segments of dirt paths with towering trees. In Lamas do Vouga, you’ll come across the Ponte Velha do Marnel, a medieval arched bridge, and walk under it.

After that, you’ll need to cross the Vouga River by walking across a long bridge with a yellow railing. This is a very busy road with fast-driving cars and enormous trucks. Fortunately, there’s a guardrail that protects the sidewalk so I didn’t feel unsafe.

Serém de Cima is your first opportunity to get something to eat and drink. There aren’t many options, but Casa Leonel was sufficient and had a cute wall of pictures of pilgrims. However, the best place to take a break is Albergaria-a-Velha, which has many more food and drink options.

Where to stay in Outeirinho (Branca)

Female pilgrim wearing a red backpack and with hiking poles, walking on the side of the street with a yellow railing

Day 12: Outeirinho (Branca) to São João da Madeira (18.88 km)

DistanceTown
0.75 kmCoche
1.93 kmPinheiro da Bemposta
2.52 kmBesteiros
2.02 kmPóvoa (Travanca)
3.00 kmOliveira de Azeméis
2.29 kmSantiago de Riba-Ul
2.70 kmCucujães
1.60 kmFaria
2.07 kmSão João da Madeira

Day 12 is the only stage where you’ll walk less than 20 km. You’ll need it, since tomorrow is the longest distance you’ll walk in one day. Luckily, it’s also the day that you’ll finally arrive in Porto.

Although it’s a short day, it’s also almost exclusively on cement, which is not fun.

Where to stay in São João da Madeira

Day 13: São João da Madeira to Porto (34.43 km)

DistanceTown
1.99 kmArrifana
2.36 kmInfestas (Escapães)
2.71 kmMalaposta
1.25 kmAiras
0.89 kmSouto Redondo
1.44 kmFerradal
2.51 kmLourosa
1.52 kmVergada (Mozelos)
1.28 kmGoda
3.62 kmGrijó
3.60 kmSergueiros
1.19 kmPerosinho
4.17 kmRechousa
4.20 kmVila Nova de Gaia
1.70 kmPorto

The first half of this stage is a continuation of yesterday, with lots and lots of pavement that can be tough on your feet and knees. After Grijó, the terrain takes an interesting and unexpected turn as you’re brought into the middle of a lush trail. This eventually spits you out into a town, and from here on out, you’re on the home stretch to Porto.

As you get closer, you’ll notice more people, livelier streets, and tourists. It can be difficult to navigate around all the foot traffic, but this is the time to slow down and take it all in. I stopped multiple times to play tourist and take photos. Once you cross the Luís I Bridge into Porto, head to the Porto Cathedral or Sé do Porto to get your pilgrim passport stamped.

How to break up day 13 into two stages

If you’re dreading covering 34 km in one day, you can break up the distance into two days instead. Unfortunately, most of the towns between São João da Madeira and Porto don’t have accommodations. Your only option is Grijó. This makes it a manageable 19.57 km from São João da Madeira to Grijó and then 14.86 km from Grijó to Porto.

Albergue de Peregrinos São Salvador de Grijó is the only albergue here and the cheapest. However, I don’t recommend it. It was by far the dirtiest place I stayed at during my one month walking the Portuguese Camino. The dorm room floors looked like they hadn’t been swept and there were questionable brown flecks on the beds. I was concerned about bed bugs when staying here, but after checking the mattress, confirmed that there were none. That’s not to say there aren’t other bugs though. The only thing that I did like about this public albergue is how spacious the bathroom was.

My experience at Albergue de Peregrinos São Salvador de Grijó is based on staying there in 2022. Based on recent Google reviews though, it seems like parts of the albergue have been redone and are now new and clean.

Unfortunately, your only other option in Grijó is the much more expensive CoutoRural. It’s also about 1 km off of the Camino. However, it could be worth it if you want to treat yourself. CoutoRural has a gorgeous garden, a small pool, and nicely maintained facilities.

Where to stay in Porto

You may have gotten used to booking accommodation one day in advance or not at all, but you should plan further ahead for Porto. The city attracts many travelers, so accommodations can book up quickly. I made my reservation three to four days before arriving in Porto and would recommend that you do the same. Porto has a lot of accommodations, so it won’t be difficult to find a place. However, the longer you wait, the fewer options you’ll have that fit your criteria.

Albergues and hostels

Guesthouses and hotels

More resources for the Camino Portugués

Camino Portuguese Lisbon to Porto Route Guide

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Complete Guide to Albergues on the Camino de Santiago https://staging.flcchn.com/albergues-camino-de-santiago/ https://staging.flcchn.com/albergues-camino-de-santiago/#respond Sat, 10 Feb 2024 14:02:58 +0000 https://staging.flcchn.com/?p=4228 Learn what an albergue is, how much albergues cost, and more. Get everything you need to know about Camino de Santiago albergues.

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Albergues, which are hostels for pilgrims, are a unique part of the Camino de Santiago experience. Even if you’ve never shared a room with someone, or in some cases up to 49 other people, staying at an albergue at least once is essential. Albergues are where the Camino spirit and community come alive, with pilgrims swapping stories, sharing what brought them to the Camino, and gathering for food and drinks in some cases.

While many pilgrims choose to stay in albergues, they aren’t the only accommodation option on the Camino. Although this guide briefly talks about other types of accommodations, it focuses on albergues so that you feel well prepared before staying in one.

Where do you sleep on the Camino de Santiago?

You can sleep pretty much anywhere on the Camino – even outside. Albergues, hostels, hotels, and camping are all options, although they may not all be available to you at every stop. Because of that, it’s important for you to do a bit of planning and to be flexible in case there isn’t the accommodation type that you prefer.

The wide variety of accommodations means that the Camino de Santiago can be done on a tight budget, but if you’re willing to pay more for a nicer place to rest, you can.

Everything you need to know about albergues

What is an albergue?

An albergue is a hostel for pilgrims. Some albergues are pilgrims-only, while others will also accommodate other guests. Albergues come in different shapes, sizes, comfort level, and quality, but they all offer beds (in shared rooms and some will also have private rooms), bathrooms, a kitchen, and a place to hand wash and dry your clothes.

The nicest albergues feel like a hostel or Airbnb. They’re lovely to stay at and some of them even have amenities like laundry machines, free breakfast, family dinner, privacy curtains, and a pool. On the other end of the spectrum, you have bare-bones albergues with rows and rows of bunk beds, little floor space, a poorly equipped kitchen, and not enough bathrooms for the number of pilgrims the albergue serves. They provide the minimum that pilgrims need. They’re just okay, but they’re still much preferred over the worst albergues, which are dirty, dusty, and not maintained.

Similar to hostels and hotels, albergues have a check-in and check-out time. Some open their doors as early as noon, but most start taking in pilgrims at 1 or 2 PM. Albergues also usually require pilgrims to leave by 8 or 9 AM so that they can clean and reset.

Dorm room with alcoves of bunk beds that have floor-length blue privacy curtains at Albergue a Conserveira
One large dorm room made up of “private” alcoves at Albergue a Conserveira

Public vs. private albergues

There are two types of albergues: public and private ones. This table breaks out the key differences, but you can read more about what to expect for each below.

Public alberguesPrivate albergues
OwnerLocal municipal, an organization, or a religious institution.Individual or group of people.
Who can stayPilgrims only, and you must show your pilgrim passport.Some may accept guests who are not walking the Camino.
Quality of facilitiesVery basic. Things are functional, but they’re simple. Nicer and more comfortable, as the owners are able to reinvest money into upgrading and maintaining the albergue.
CleanlinessMost are decently clean.Typically very clean.
ReservationsMost do not take reservations and operate on a first come, first serve basis. However, you should always double check to make sure.Reservations are accepted.
Shared room€5 – €8 €12 – €17
Private roomNone available€20 or more
BedBasic mattress with disposable cover – no sheets provided. Sometimes, a pillow with a disposable cover is also available.Comfortable mattress with a proper fitted sheet and a blanket/duvet.
BathroomSometimes there aren’t enough bathrooms and you may need to wait.Usually have enough bathrooms and you won’t have to wait.
KitchenTypically has a fridge, utensils, plates/bowls, cups, a microwave, and a kettle. In some cases, there may also be a stove/hot plate and cooking equipment.Usually has a complete kitchen with a fridge, utensils, plates/bowls, cups, a microwave, a kettle, a stove/hot plate, and cooking equipment.
LaundryBasin, clothesline, and clothespins for hand washing. There may not be enough clothespins for all pilgrims, and soap may or may not be provided. Basin, clothesline, and clothespins (sometimes there may not be enough) for handwashing. Soap is sometimes provided. There may be a laundry machine, and in some cases, a dryer too.
CurfewSome will have a curfew (usually 10 PM) where you must be in the albergue by a certain time or you’ll be locked out. No curfew.

Public albergues

Public albergues are typically run by the local municipal, an organization, or a religious institution such as a church, monastery, or convent. They’re solely for pilgrims, so you’ll need to show your pilgrim passport in order to stay.

Public albergues are cheaper than private albergues, but the facilities reflect that. There are no private rooms, only shared rooms that usually have bunk beds. You’ll be given a disposable bed cover to put on the mattress. And if the albergue offers pillows (some don’t), you’ll also be given a disposable pillow cover for it.

Bathrooms are available, although some albergues have really bad bathroom to pilgrim ratios. For example, one or two bathrooms for 50 pilgrims. There’s a place to hand wash your clothes and dry them. However, space on the clotheslines can be limited in some cases.

Public albergues also have a kitchen, with some being more basic than others. Not all will have a stove or hot plate for cooking. So if you plan on making dinner, you should always check in to your albergue and scope out the cooking situation before going grocery shopping.

Private albergues

Private albergues are privately owned and run by an individual or group. In some cases, they’re run by fellow pilgrims – people who have walked the Camino and are passionate about it.

Although private albergues cost a bit more than public albergues, they’re still cheap. By paying slightly more, you’ll get much nicer facilities at private albergues. Because the owners make money from the albergue, they’re able to invest that money back into upgrades and routine maintenance.

Are albergues free?

Albergues aren’t free, although there are some that take donations instead of payment. If you’re really tight on money, it’s perfectly okay to not make a donation. However, these donation-based albergues are usually entirely run off of donations and the hosts and owners work for free. So if you have the means to, donate what you feel like and know that your money all goes toward pilgrims like you.

How much an albergue costs depends on whether it’s a public or private albergue. Public albergues are cheaper, usually costing between €5 and €8 per night for a shared room. Private albergue dorm rooms are around €12 – €17 and private rooms (if available) are €20+.

What is the difference between a hostel and an albergue?

An albergue is essentially a hostel for pilgrims, while a hostel provides accommodation to any and all types of travelers. Albergues are typically for pilgrims only. In particular, public albergues only house pilgrims and you’ll need to provide proof with your pilgrim passport. Some private albergues will also accept travelers who are not walking the Camino.

Common area with a couch, TV, and fireplace at Sea Soul Esposende
Common area at Sea Soul Esposende, a hostel that also accommodates pilgrims

Do you need to book albergues?

While you don’t need to book albergues in advance, it’s always a good idea to make a reservation so that you’re guaranteed a bed at the albergue you want. Albergues do fill up during the peak season (June – August), making it difficult to just walk up and secure a spot.

Note that some albergues do not take reservations. This is usually the case for public albergues, but you should always double check. Public albergues typically take pilgrims on a first come, first serve basis. Some accept reservations, but they only hold the reservation until a certain time. If you don’t show up by then, they’ll give your bed away to the next pilgrim.

My advice is to always book in advance when possible. You don’t need to book far in advance though – one or two days in advance is enough. Depending on the albergue, you may need to reserve on Booking.com or by contacting them via email, WhatsApp, or phone.

I’ve seen pilgrims get turned away from albergues. When this happens in a small town with only one place to stay, your only option is to walk further or take a taxi/public transportation to the next area with accommodation and then backtrack the next day. If you decide to walk it, that extra distance can be brutal depending on how much you’ve already walked and how far the next town is.

Even when at capacity, some albergues do have extra mats that they can pull out for overflow. But it’s best not to take a chance. Make a reservation when possible, and if reservations aren’t accepted, be sure to get to the albergue early (at the latest, within a few hours of the albergue opening).

Do albergues have private rooms?

Public albergues do not have private rooms, but private albergues do. Their private rooms typically sleep one to two people. In some cases, you might be able to find private rooms that can fit up to four people.

Shared rooms vary in size. The smallest ones are like a regular bedroom that sleeps two people, although these are rare to find. There are also massive dorm rooms that fit 50 or even up to 100 pilgrims.

Do you need a sleeping bag for albergues?

You need either a sleeping bag liner or sleeping bag when staying at public albergues, since they don’t provide sheets or blankets. For private albergues, they provide blankets or a duvet but usually not sheets. While you don’t necessarily need a sleeping bag or liner when staying at private albergues, it’s a good idea to carry a liner that provides a much lighter covering compared to the thick blankets.

I used the Sea to Summit Premium Silk Sleeping Bag Liner when I did the Camino Portugués in September and it was the perfect choice. It’s light, high quality, and packs down extremely small into its own zippered stuff sack.

Do albergues have blankets?

Public albergues do not provide blankets, so you’ll need to come fully prepared with either a sleeping bag liner in the warmer months or a sleeping bag in the colder months. For cool summer nights when a sleeping bag liner didn’t provide enough warmth, I would just put on an additional layer when going to sleep or drape a hoodie over the upper part of my body.

If you’re staying in a private albergue, they’ll provide a blanket or duvet. Although the blankets are washed, I recommend using them over a sleeping bag liner at the least. I also found these blankets to be pretty thick, so it might be too much if you’re walking the Camino in the summer.

Do you need a pillow on the Camino de Santiago?

Having a pillow is up to your personal preference. The majority of public albergues do not provide pillows, while private albergues do. I don’t think I saw any pilgrim on the Camino carry their own pillow, since you want to carry as little as possible. My opinion is that a pillow isn’t a necessity and it’s something I was perfectly fine without. When I stayed at an albergue that didn’t provide a pillow, I folded my hoodie up into a makeshift pillow and it worked well enough.

Do albergues have wifi?

All albergues have wifi, and in most cases, I found it to be pretty speedy. Websites load quickly, and I was able to watch YouTube videos.

📱 Stay connected on the Camino with an eSIM

While there’s wifi at albergues, you’ll need to have cell data in order to message people as you’re walking and check apps, maps, and other resources.

Airalo offers eSIMs or digital SIMs so that you can stay connected no matter where you are on the Camino. They have local eSIMs for one country, as well as regional eSIMs for an entire continent. If you’re walking a Camino route that spans multiple countries, like the Camino Portugués or Camino Frances, the Europe regional eSIM will work for your entire trip.

Do albergues have towels?

Public albergues do not provide towels. Some private albergues provide towels for free, require a small payment for a towel, or do not provide a towel. If you plan on staying in albergues, it’s best to bring your own towel – just don’t forget it when you pack up in the morning! You should get a quick dry towel that’s light and compact.

Do albergues have showers?

All albergues have bathrooms equipped with showers, toilets, and sinks. However, bathrooms range in quality. Some are basic and sparse, while others are nice and modern. Most showers have enough room, but there are some that are small and cramped.

There was also one shower that I encountered that didn’t have private stalls but rather one large showering area that would be shared by other pilgrims of the same gender. Luckily, I was the only person in the bathroom at the time.

Albergues also differ in their bathroom capacity or the ratio of sinks/toilets/showers to pilgrims. Some albergues have a horrible ratio, with two bathrooms for 50 people. You’ll see this in public albergues. Private albergues usually have more bathrooms – enough so that there’s never a wait.

Do albergues have lockers?

If you’re used to hostels that have lockers, you won’t find that on the Camino. Albergues generally do not have lockers, although I was pleasantly surprised at the few that did offer them. If there are lockers, you’ll need to have your own lock.

Pilgrims typically don’t carry much of value, except for their ID/passport, money, and a cellphone. Some will also have a laptop or camera. Theft is rare in albergues, but does occasionally happen. So if you have valuable items on you, either keep them on your body at all times (for example, put your wallet, ID, and cellphone in a small crossbody bag) or lock your backpack.

If you carry a lock, metal locks are sturdier but heavy. Instead, use a plastic lock that does the job while being much lighter.

How do you find albergues on the Camino?

There are several ways to find albergues. You can simply stumble upon them, since most albergues are located on the Camino route. This isn’t the greatest option, since you can’t plan ahead and are relying on sheer luck that you find an albergue and that it has space for you.

Instead, use Camino apps such as Buen Camino (available for Android and iOS). These apps are specifically created for the Camino de Santiago and they contain a wealth of information, including a map of the route, tools to plan out your stages, and a list of accommodations in each town.

There are also several websites that compile all the albergues in one place. Gronze.com is the most complete website that I’ve found and used in addition to the Buen Camino app. Although Gronze is in Spanish, you can easily use Google Translate to convert it into your language.

It can be difficult to keep these lists of albergues updated, so you will always need to double check if the albergue is still operating. You can do this by searching for the name of the albergue in Google or any search engine. Albergues usually have a Google Maps listing that’s up to date.

Lastly, for those who prefer a physical book, there are also paper Camino guidebooks. Although the guidebooks are fairly small, carrying one means adding a bit of extra weight to your pack. John Brierley is the most well-known Camino guidebook author. Before he passed in 2023, he wrote many guidebooks that cover the multiple Camino trails.

When picking up a guidebook, make sure you get the most recent edition for current maps, notes, and accommodations.

🛌 Albergues on the Camino Portugués

What you’ll need when staying in an albergue

If you’ve read the rest of this article, you’ll be able to start putting together a list of the things you need when staying at albergues. Here’s a list of everything I’ve mentioned so far, as well as some items that you may not have thought of:

  • Sleeping bag liner or sleeping bag
  • Headlamp – A headlamp is useful if you’re up after the lights have been turned off at night or before the lights have been turned on in the morning. I found that it made more sense for me to use the flashlight on my phone in the albergue, instead of my headlamp. However, my headlamp came in handy when I started walking before the sun came up.
  • Quick dry towel
  • Toiletries bag with a hook
  • Flip flops – Change into these after a long day of walking in athletic shoes or stuffy hiking boots. You’ll also definitely want flip flops for the shower.
  • Combination lock – A combination lock keeps your things safe in your bag or in a locker. Since I had several pieces of technology on me when I walked the Camino, I locked the zippers of my backpack when the accommodation didn’t have lockers.
  • Crossbody or sling bag – If your only valuables are a cellphone, ID/passport, and money, keep them securely on you at all times with a small sling bag.
  • Toothbrush, toothpaste, and floss
  • Body wash (and optional face wash) – Multi-use products are key to keeping your backpack light. If you’re able to use the same product for your body and face, you’ll reduce what you have to carry.
  • Shampoo (and optional conditioner) – Liquid shampoo and conditioner weighs more than a bar and doesn’t last as long. I personally used LUSH’s Jumping Juniper shampoo bar and barely made a dent over the month that I spent walking the Camino.
  • Laundry soap – A lot of albergues don’t provide soap for hand washing your clothes, so you’ll need to have some with you. I recommend using a multi-purpose product like Campsuds that can be used for both body wash and laundry soap.
  • Ear plugs – Unless you know that you’ll be staying in a private room during your entire Camino, you’ll likely encounter some loud snorers when sharing a room.
  • Reusable water bottle
  • Pilgrim credential/passport – You can either order one to be shipped to you in advance or buy a pilgrim credential when you land.
  • Travel adapter – Unless you’re from Europe or a country that also uses plug type C and F, you’ll need a travel adapter in order to charge your electronics.

This list is not meant to be a comprehensive packing list for the Camino. For that, check out my Camino de Santiago packing list for women (it can also be adapted for men).

What is a hospitalero/hospitalera?

At some point in your planning or Camino journey, you’ll probably come across the word hospitalero or hospitalera. A hospitalero (male) or hospitalera (female) is the Spanish word for someone who works at an albergue. Hospitaleros are volunteers who contribute their time and effort to helping run and maintain an albergue. They’re typically people who have done the Camino before and want to give back to the community.

White chair and small metal table on a balcony surrounded by plants and hillside views at Albergue Peregrinos St Antonio de Agueda
The balcony with hillside views at Albergue Peregrinos St Antonio de Agueda

How much does accommodation cost on the Camino de Santiago?

Accommodation costs on the Camino vary depending on the type of accommodation. Ranging from €5 to €8, a dorm room at a public albergue is your cheapest option. Dorm rooms at private albergues are €12 – €17 and private rooms usually start at €20.

Staying at a hostel costs €15+ for a dorm room and €40+ for a private room. Guesthouses and hotels start at around €50 for your own room.

When considering how much you’ll spend on accommodation, you also need to factor in seasonality. Prices go up during the peak season (June – August). If you want to save on accommodations, then you should walk the Camino during the shoulder months (April to May and September to October) to get both cheaper prices and enjoyable weather.

Bed bugs on the Camino

Although bed bugs aren’t dangerous and they don’t spread disease to humans, they are a huge nuisance and can throw your Camino plans off track. Bed bugs do pop up from time to time on the Camino, so your best way to deal with them is to learn how to spot and prevent them. If you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having bed bugs, you should also know what to do to get rid of them.

How to spot and prevent bed bugs

There are four ways to keep you and your belongings free of bed bugs: do the Camino early, spray your things with permethrin, check the bed when you arrive, and read reviews.

Walk the Camino before most people do

Beds see the most turnover during the summer, when it’s peak season on the Camino. When there are more guests, there’s a greater likelihood of bed bugs. To reduce your risk, do the Camino before the majority of pilgrims by going in the spring. Many albergues close during the winter to do a thorough cleaning, so you’ll arrive at a sparkling clean place when you walk early.

Although I walked the Camino Portuguese in September, I made it through without any bed bug incidents. So it’s possible to leave unscathed even when you’re walking after most people have already passed through.

Spray your bags and clothes with permethrin

Permethrin is an insect repellent that can be used on clothing, sleeping bags, backpacks, and anything else made of fabric. It’s effective at repelling common outdoor pests like ticks and mosquitoes, but it also works against bed bugs. If you decide to use it, you’ll need to spray your gear and clothing before you leave for the Camino.

Some people are hesitant to use permethrin on their clothes. In that case, just use it on your backpack.

Make sure to follow the directions on your bottle of permethrin when applying it.

Check the bed before sitting on it and do not put your stuff on it

When you arrive at your accommodation, do not put your belongings on the bed or near it. Check the mattress and bed frame for bed bugs first. They usually hide near mattress seams and tags and in the cracks of bed frames. You can spot bed bugs or signs of them, such as dark spots and reddish stains. The United States Environmental Protection Agency has more information on how to spot bed bugs.

If you suspect that there are bed bugs, you should alert the staff and feel comfortable with asking for another bed or moving to another accommodation. Bed bugs need to be treated immediately, so speaking up is extremely helpful in preventing an infestation.

Read reviews before you book

Your last defense against bed bugs is to read reviews of the accommodation before you make a reservation. If a place has had bed bugs, there will be reviews calling it out. My personal preference was to not stay at a place that had any reviews mentioning bed bugs, even if those reviews were written months or a year ago. Figure out what you’re comfortable with and book accordingly.

How to treat bed bugs

One of the most obvious signs of bed bugs is waking up to a trail of bites on your body. If you’ve gotten bed bugs, you should take action right away.

An easy way to kill bed bugs is to throw your things in a dryer on high for at least 20 minutes. Drying machines can be difficult to find on the Camino though, so a more convenient method is to wash your clothing and bags in water that’s at least 120° Fahrenheit (48.9° Celsius).

If the bed bug bites are itchy, you can use a cream that contains hydrocortisone or take an oral antihistamine. For a more severe reaction, you should consider seeing a doctor.

Don’t forget to alert the accommodation about what’s happened so that they can also address the bed bugs and prevent it from getting worse.

More resources for the Camino de Santiago

Camino de Santiago Guide to Albergues

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Best Albergues on the Camino Portuguese https://staging.flcchn.com/best-albergues-camino-portuguese/ https://staging.flcchn.com/best-albergues-camino-portuguese/#respond Sat, 03 Feb 2024 15:02:02 +0000 https://staging.flcchn.com/?p=4132 Discover some of the best albergues and hostels on the Portuguese Camino de Santiago. They're clean, comfortable, and have some amenities.

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Just because you’re staying at albergues on the Camino Portugués, which are the cheapest accommodation option, doesn’t mean that you can’t have an excellent stay. After walking the Camino de Santiago Portugués and staying at public and private albergues nearly the entire time, I know what an amazing albergue and what a not-so-great albergue looks like.

Here are some of the best albergues on the Camino Portugués where you can expect clean facilities, friendly hospitality, cozy vibes, and even free breakfast in some cases. I’ve also included hostels in this list, since some of them are roughly the same price as a private albergue.

💡 How this list was created

Learn the criteria that I used to compile this list and why certain albergues did or didn’t make it.

Lisbon to Porto route

Albergue O Bonito/Café Bonito

Pros

  • Clean facilities
  • Spacious dorm rooms
  • Laundry machine
  • Pool
  • Attached café that’s convenient for food and drinks
  • Small kitchen with a vending machine and automated coffee machine

Cons

  • Nothing in the area except for three restaurants
  • Only lower bunk beds have privacy curtains and the curtains are on one side, so it doesn’t actually give you much privacy

Rabaçal is so sparse that I’m not sure you can even call it a town. It’s best known for its Roman villa, but there’s not much here aside from a few small churches and three restaurants. Albergue O Bonito, and its attached Café Bonito (one of the three restaurants), is the only albergue in this tiny place.

Some places on the Camino have only one albergue, but it’s not a place you’d want to stay. However, that isn’t the case with Albergue O Bonito. It’s clean and surprisingly spacious. There was lots of room in the dorm rooms and there were a few chairs. When I stayed at the albergue, the room was only half full so I could really spread my stuff out. The lower bunk beds also have a privacy curtain, although it only covers one side.

If you’re tired of hand washing your clothes by the time you reach Rabaçal, the albergue has a laundry machine. Not all albergues have a laundry machine, so this was a popular spot to get proper washing done. You might have to wait to get your clothes in the wash, but it’s worth it. The albergue also has lots of clothesline and clothespins, so you shouldn’t have to fight for a spot to dry your clothes.

The most prized and rarest amenity that Albergue O Bonito has is a pool. Albergue O Bonito’s outdoor area is a fantastic place to unwind after a day of walking. Aside from a pool, there are also lounge chairs that you can move to position yourself either in the sun or in the shade. And if that’s not the type of unwinding that you want, pull up a chair at Café Bonito. Pilgrims gather here after showering and doing laundry to chat, drink, and snack until it’s time for dinner.

Albergue Peregrinos St Antonio de Agueda

Pros

  • Beautiful, clean property with lots of outdoor seating and a view of the hills
  • Plenty of bathrooms, which are also modern
  • 6-minute walk to a large grocery store
  • Small but well-equipped kitchen
  • Comfortable beds with a proper pillow and blanket
  • Friendly host

Cons

  • Dorm rooms can be a bit of a tight squeeze, depending on which room you’re in
  • Outside of Agueda’s center where restaurants are

It was a hot, sunny day when I arrived at Albergue Peregrinos St Antonio de Agueda, and I was so happy to finally step inside its air-conditioned lobby. Right off the bat, the lady who welcomed us was friendly and I got a good feeling about the albergue. Once I checked in and was shown around, it was confirmed that Albergue Peregrinos St Antonio de Agueda wouldn’t disappoint.

The albergue itself is warm and welcoming, with colorful umbrellas hung up outside its entrance, multiple seating areas indoor and outdoor, vibrant flowers and plants, terracotta tiles, and fun decor. I was impressed at how clean and cozy the facilities were and how many bathrooms there were even though the albergue only has capacity for 19 people.

I’ll admit that part of why I enjoyed my stay at Albergue Peregrinos St Antonio de Agueda was the other pilgrims who also stayed there at the time. Since there aren’t many pilgrims who walk the Lisbon to Porto route on the Portuguese Camino, you’ll see the same people over and over again. By the time we had all reached Agueda, many of us had spent multiple days walking together and staying in the same places.

Instead of having dinner out that night, we decided to have a family dinner at the albergue and everyone joined in. A few of us went grocery shopping, others cooked, and we all sat down for a delicious Italian dinner with lots of wine and surrounded by new friends. It’s one of my favorite memories from my time walking the Camino Portugués.

There really isn’t much to criticize about Albergue Peregrinos St Antonio de Agueda. Depending on which room you stay in, space can be a bit tight. Just find a space for your belongings and it’s not a big deal. Also, the albergue is about a 15-minute walk from the center of Agueda where most restaurants are. After a long day of walking, the last thing you’ll want to do is walk another kilometer for food. Fortunately, there’s a LIDL, a large discount grocery store, that’s much closer to the albergue. If you don’t want to double back into town for dinner, you can whip up an easy dinner using the albergue’s well-equipped kitchen instead.

White tile steps that lead up to a door at the back of Albergue Peregrinos St Antonio de Agueda
The multi-level back of Albergue Peregrinos St Antonio de Agueda that leads to the kitchen and dorm rooms

Albergue Casa Católico

Pros

  • Donation-based
  • Amazing free family dinner that includes wine and dessert
  • Hearty free breakfast with bread, cold cuts, cheese, yogurt, fruit, eggs, and cereal
  • Extremely passionate and friendly hosts
  • Embodies the Camino spirit

Cons

  • Very few cafés, restaurants, and grocery stores nearby
  • Dated but well taken care of facilities

Don’t let the humble look of Albergue Casa Católico fool you. The albergue is made up of three separate buildings and lots of outdoor space with clotheslines, tables, and chairs. The main building feels like staying in someone’s home – there’s a kitchen, several bedrooms, a bathroom, and a dining room.

While the facilities satisfy everything you need as a pilgrim, this isn’t what makes Albergue Casa Católico special. Despite the albergue being volunteer-run and donation-based, it offers one of the best free breakfasts I experienced on the Camino and a filling family dinner with wine and dessert. The host, Paolo, has done many Caminos himself and is incredibly friendly and welcoming. His passion for the Camino is clear and it’s a big reason why Albergue Casa Católico is one of the best albergues on the Portuguese Camino de Santiago.

Although it isn’t a public albergue, the bed setup is similar – you’ll be given disposable bed and pillow covers. The biggest downside to this albergue (and this area) is that there are few restaurants and cafés. Luckily, the albergue serves dinner. But if you arrive early enough for lunch, Cave do Encontro is your best option. It’s a 7-minute walk from the albergue. For a snack and drinks, Padaria Pastelaria Padroeiro São Vicente is an okay option that’s closest to the albergue. Some of their baked goods are better than others, but you can’t go wrong with a cheap, cold beer.

Coastal route

Sea Soul Esposende

Pros

  • Extremely clean
  • Modern and spacious
  • Dorm rooms have roomy beds, privacy curtains, and large lockers
  • Outdoor washbin for laundry and clotheslines
  • Large bathrooms with lots of showers, toilets, and sinks
  • Fully equipped kitchen
  • Amenities like a pool, a bar, and lots of communal spaces
  • 7-minute walk to a large grocery store

Cons

  • At the end of Esposende
  • Not exclusive to pilgrims
  • Need to walk into the center of Esposende for most restaurants

I absolutely loved Sea Soul Esposende – it was one of the best places that I stayed at on the Camino Portugués coastal route. Sea Soul is a hostel that also caters to pilgrims, with a fully equipped kitchen, outdoor washing and clotheslines, comfy beds with privacy curtains, and large bathrooms with plenty of showers, toilets, and sinks. The hostel is modern, clean, and spacious. If all of that isn’t enough, there’s even a pool, lots of communal seating, a bar, and games.

Sea Soul Esposende is also a 7-minute walk from the large budget grocery store ALDI. It’s perfect for stocking up on snacks and picking up food for dinner and breakfast. If you want to have someone else do the cooking, I recommend A Petisqueira, which is one block away. Their small plates are best shared with others. If you’re dining alone, order two or three dishes, depending on how hungry you are. Two other restaurants that are a short walk away are Koa Restaurant & Pool Bar and Marine Lounge.

The main downside to Sea Soul is that it’s at the very end of Esposende. This means you’ll have to walk through all of Esposende to get there, adding some additional distance before you can put your feet up. However, you’ll reduce your distance the next day. If you prefer to have more restaurant options, this also means that you’ll need to walk into the center of town.

Another downside is that because Sea Soul is a hostel, you may experience other travelers who cause a lot of noise at night and disturb your sleep. I didn’t find this to be the case when I stayed there in late September, but it is something to keep in mind. The hostel was actually pretty quiet when I was there and most of the guests seemed to be pilgrims.

Bom Caminha

Pros

  • Large, beautiful kitchen with spices, some free food, and lots of cooking equipment
  • Multi-level backyard with a hammock and seating
  • Lovely, hospitable owners who have a few friendly dogs
  • Located near restaurants and grocery stores
  • Two blocks away from the Minho River
  • Spacious bathrooms
  • Comfortable dorm beds, each with an outlet, light, and storage pouch
  • Breakfast is provided with a donation

Cons

  • Limited bathrooms, so there were a few times when I had to wait
  • Not exclusive to pilgrims

Bom Caminha was another one of my favorite albergues on the coastal route. It’s a private albergue run by a lovely German couple who have a few dogs. Their furry friends were a highlight for me, but anyone who’s allergic will want to unfortunately avoid this albergue.

There’s so much to love about Bom Caminha. It’s located on the Camino route, and you’ll reach it just before hitting the center of Caminha where there’s restaurants and grocery stores. The albergue feels like a large house, rather than a hostel. The large wooden staircase, monochromatic tiled bathrooms, bright colors, and dated yet cozy furniture all make it feel like a place that your grandparents might live in.

Their dorm beds and blankets are so soft that you’ll just want to wrap yourself up, sink in, and never get up again. Each bed also comes with an outlet, light, and pouch to store any items that you need to conveniently access. The kitchen is a pilgrim’s dream – spacious and filled to the brim with all the cooking equipment you might need. It’s also well-stocked with spices and some pantry staples left over from other pilgrims. Bom Caminha even offers a basic breakfast with donation.

The albergue’s backyard is another standout feature. It spans multiple levels and has plenty of areas to sit or lay out in the sun. There’s also a large basin for hand washing and clotheslines.

There are only a few drawbacks to Bom Caminha. I stayed on the first floor, where there was only one bathroom. This wasn’t enough for the number of pilgrims staying on the floor, so I had to wait for the bathroom at times. Also, because Bom Caminha is a private albergue-hostel hybrid, anyone can stay there. Most guests are pilgrims, but there was one person who was not walking the Camino when I was there. This can potentially be annoying if other guests aren’t respectful of how early pilgrims tend to go to sleep.

Central route

Albergue Pallanes

Pros

  • Gorgeous, large estate that feels like staying on a Spanish vineyard
  • Dorm rooms have shelves for storing your stuff
  • Large but basic kitchen
  • Plenty of bathrooms that are spotless and spacious
  • Huge backyard with lots of drying lines
  • Laundry machines

Cons

  • 9-minute walk to the center of Tui where most restaurants are

Albergue Pallanes was unlike any other albergue that I had stayed at on the Camino Portugués. The building sits on a large grassy plot of land lined with trees and features a porch that wraps around most of the house. And with the white and stone facade and orange roof, it feels like you’ve been transported to a Spanish vineyard, minus the rows of grapes.

The inside of the albergue is just as nice as the outside. There’s a small seating area once you step inside and then it opens up into dorm rooms (the albergue also has private rooms) and a kitchen. Although the dorm room that I stayed in slept up to 10 people, it didn’t feel cramped. There were also several stools for sitting or putting your belongings on and shelves that could be used for storage.

Albergue Pallanes accommodates a lot of pilgrims, but it has plenty of bathrooms. I never had to wait, and the bathrooms were spotless.

The only thing that isn’t ideal about the albergue is its location. It’s about 200 meters off of the Camino route and a 9-minute walk into the center of Tui. If you’re going out for dinner, it means you’ll need to walk a bit more than you’d probably like to. However, if you decide to cook, you’ll have a much shorter walk. There’s a supermarket 300 meters away.

White front gate of Albergue Pallanes facing the road
The front gate of Albergue Pallanes

Redondela to Santiago de Compostela (coastal and central route)

Albergue A Conserveira

Pros

  • The dorm room is one enormous, long room with 2 to 4-bed alcoves that have a privacy curtain
  • Each bed has a locker (you’ll need to have your own lock)
  • Large washing room for laundry
  • Laundry machines
  • Clean bathrooms, beds, and kitchen

Cons

  • Dorm room feels like it’s a warehouse or garage, so it can get drafty and cold
  • Bathroom is small for the number of pilgrims so you may have to wait
  • Small kitchen that can get crowded

Albergue A Conserveira isn’t as nice compared to many of the albergues on this list, but there are a few reasons why I particularly enjoyed my time here. First, I liked how they laid out the dorm room. It’s one long room with multiple alcoves that serve as makeshift “rooms.” Each alcove is made up of three walls and has two or four beds, with a curtain that can close off the side without a wall. This is convenient if you’re with a group, because you can share a “room” with each other and have privacy. The albergue also has lockers for each bed – a surprising rarity on the Camino.

To accompany so many pilgrims, the albergue has a large washing room where you can not only wash and dry your clothes, but also leave bikes and wet shoes to dry. The albergue was well maintained too. Everything from the dorm room to the bathroom and kitchen was clean.

Despite all these characteristics, there are a few reasons why some pilgrims may not be a fan of Albergue A Conserveira. The dorm room and laundry room are in a warehouse or garage-like structure that’s attached to the front area of the albergue where the kitchen and bathrooms are. This means that the room can get drafty and cold, especially when it rains.

For the number of pilgrims that the albergue houses, the bathrooms are fairly small. When I was there, the albergue wasn’t full so I didn’t have to wait for the toilet, sink, or shower. However, if you’re there when it’s at capacity, I could see the small size of the bathrooms becoming a challenge. The kitchen is also quite small. It can quickly become crowded when pilgrims all bring their stuff out to the kitchen in the morning to pack.

Nacama Hostel

Pros

  • Comfortable beds with privacy curtains, an outlet, and a light
  • Spacious dorm rooms, kitchen, and bathrooms
  • Laundry machine
  • Extremely clean with modern, airy facilities
  • Surrounded by a lot of restaurants and shops

Cons

  • Not exclusive to pilgrims
  • Kitchen does not have a stove or hot plate for cooking

Nacama Hostel was probably the most spacious place that I stayed, where it felt like they really tried to give guests more than enough room to move around and lay out their belongings. The entire hostel is well spaced out, including the bathrooms, dorm rooms, and kitchen. In the dorm rooms, each bunk bed has a privacy curtain, outlet, and lights.

The hostel is also located on the Camino, in the center of Pontevedra. It’s surrounded by lots of restaurants and shops, making it the perfect stop to pick up anything you need.

Although the kitchen is roomy and has lots of potential to be a gathering spot, the lack of actual cooking equipment means that you won’t find many pilgrims making food. There isn’t a stove or portable hot plate, only a microwave, kettle, and toaster. While you can still put together a meal using that equipment, Pontevedra has many more interesting dining options.

Since Nacama is a hostel and not an albergue, you may also share the space with travelers who are not walking the Camino. Aside from potentially having to deal with inconsiderate guests, I think this is also a reason why Nacama doesn’t feel social. Being a hostel, it lacks the Camino spirit that you’ll usually find in albergues.

Albergue Casa Aldea da Pedreira

Pros

  • Stunning stone albergue with clean, rustic facilities
  • Dorm beds have a privacy curtain, outlet, and light
  • Vast backyard with drying lines and seating
  • On-site food truck with food and drinks
  • Laundry machine
  • Not a popular stop, so you most likely won’t have to deal with a lot of pilgrims

Cons

  • 9-minute walk to the main road where there’s restaurants

While Albergue Pallanes feels like you’re on a Spanish estate, Albergue Casa Aldea da Pedreira makes you feel like you’re at a charming vacation home in the Spanish countryside. The stone building sits on a quiet, small road, with a backyard that opens up onto a large grassy field. The black food truck that’s parked at the front of the albergue, serving drinks, bocadillos (sandwiches), hamburgers, salads, and more, is a thoughtful touch for both albergue guests and passing pilgrims.

Inside, the facilities are rustic and homey. There’s a gorgeous black and white tiled kitchen, roomy bathrooms, and some of the most comfortable beds on the Portuguese Camino.

Another reason to stay at Albergue Casa Aldea de Pedreira is that it’s not a popular stop for pilgrims. When I was there, it seemed like the albergue was only half full or even less. For pilgrims who are looking for a short walk into Santiago de Compostela, O Milladoiro is a more popular place to stay since it’s a larger town with more accommodations, restaurants, and shops. So if you prefer to have more space or a quieter night, Albergue Casa Aldea de Pedreira is a better choice.

Although the albergue’s location is ideal because it’s right on the Camino path, you’ll need to walk about nine minutes to the main road (Tr.ª da Casalonga) in order to find restaurants, bars, a small market, and a pharmacy. With that being the only minor inconvenience though, Albergue Casa Aldea da Pedreira is nearly perfect.

How this list was created

There are a few criteria that I looked at when thinking about which albergues would be included in this list:

  • Cleanliness: As someone who won’t stay somewhere that’s dirty and has reports of bedbugs, cleanliness is extremely important to me. In order for an albergue to be considered for this list, it had to be spotless – no mold, no unidentifiable crumbs or flecks, no dust, and no bugs. Cleanliness is a given for all the places on this list.
  • Facilities: While it’s always nice to stay at a place that’s modern, it wasn’t a must for me. What was a requirement though was that the facilities are well maintained. They have to look like they’ve been taken care of, fixed when needed, and cleaned.
  • Amenities: Amenities aren’t needed for this list, but they’re definitely a nice-to-have that gives an accommodation major points. If an albergue or hostel has amenities like a pool, laundry machine, or even a food truck, there’s a good chance it’ll be included as long as it’s also clean and well maintained.
  • Space: Some places try to squeeze as many guests in as possible, leaving very little space for your stuff and to move around. The albergues on this list have either an adequate amount of space or much more – think lots of floor space, high ceilings, and open areas.
  • Comfort: If an accommodation has every other criteria checked off but has rock hard beds and seating, it’s a no for me. After walking for hours each day, getting a good night’s rest is so important. The accommodations here all have comfortable beds, some with privacy curtains, and blankets or duvets that you just want to curl up in.
  • Camino spirit: The Camino spirit is a feeling that’s created by the host, as well as by other pilgrims who you’re around. Hosts who have done the Camino themselves and get the magic of the Camino create a place that’s full of it. They provide areas where pilgrims can hang out to talk about their day, offer free or donation-based breakfast, and/or provide a family dinner that brings everyone together. The Camino spirit isn’t a must to make this list, but any albergue that embodies it and has the other baseline requirements immediately secures their spot here. (For this reason, hostels are included even though they lack Camino community – a result of not being exclusive to pilgrims.)
  • Location: Ideally, anywhere you stay should be on the Camino route so you don’t have to take a detour and add more distance. It should also be close to restaurants, grocery stores, and shops so that you can walk out the door and immediately get what you need. While not all accommodations on this list check off both criteria, they meet at least one and any extra distance you have to walk is minimal.
  • Would I look for an alternative: While I would stay at the vast majority of the albergues that I experienced again, I would also look to see if there was a better alternative first before booking them. What makes the places on this list special is I wouldn’t even think about looking for a better option. I would reserve my spot at these albergues and hostels right away because of how much I loved my initial experience.

Why isn’t [insert albergue] on this list?

This list isn’t meant to be a complete list of all the best albergues on the Camino Portugués. It only reflects the albergues that I’ve personally stayed at and had an amazing experience with.

You might’ve noticed a lack of public albergues in this list. That’s because they’re all roughly the same. Some are certainly better than others, with a better bathroom to pilgrim ratio, a kitchen that has more complete cooking equipment, and more space. However, the experience at staying in public albergues is relatively the same. You’ll get basic facilities, somewhere to hand wash and dry your clothes, a disposable bed covering, and sometimes a pillow (with a disposable covering).

Public albergues are also pretty clean. I only ran into one that I would absolutely never stay at again due to the lack of cleanliness.

Given that you know what to expect when staying at a public albergue and they don’t have the means to impress guests with nicer facilities and amenities, this list focuses on private albergues and hostels that do have the means to create an outstanding experience.

If you’re looking for a comprehensive list of all albergues on the Camino Portugués, download the Buen Camino app (Android and iOS) or reference Gronze.com.

More resources for the Camino Portugués

Camino Portuguese Best Albergues

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Camino Portuguese Central Route: Guide, Stages, and Map https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-portuguese-central-route-guide/ https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-portuguese-central-route-guide/#respond Wed, 11 Oct 2023 01:37:09 +0000 https://staging.flcchn.com/?p=3273 Get the complete guide to the Camino Portuguese central route. See all the stages, a map of the route, and recommendations on where to stay.

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When walking the Camino Portugués, or Portuguese Way of the Camino de Santiago, you’ll need to choose between taking the central route or the coastal route from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. The central route is considered the “traditional” option, and it’s more popular with pilgrims. You’ll pass through one charming town after another and walk across medieval bridges that have been there for hundreds of years. The central and coastal routes run parallel to each other until Redondela, where they merge into one route that brings you to Santiago de Compostela.

If you’ve chosen to walk the central route, this is your complete guide to all the stages, the best places to stay (especially if you’re on a budget), and what to expect. Below, you’ll also see a map of the route with markers for each stage and the accommodations, restaurants, and cafés that I recommend.

Overview of the Camino Portugués central route

  • Distance: 242 km or 150 miles
  • Number of days to complete: 10 to 12 days
  • Starting point: Porto, Portugal
  • End point: Santiago de Compostela, Spain
  • Terrain: Mountains, forest trails, farmland, roads, cobblestone
  • Accommodation: Public and private albergues, hostels, guesthouses, and hotels

How long is the central route?

The Camino Portugués central route is 242 km or 150 miles long, and it takes 10 to 12 days to complete. If you decide to cut over to the coastal route at any point or take the Variante Espiritual (spiritual variant), your distance will be more. It will also likely take you one to three additional days to reach Santiago de Compostela, depending on how much distance you walk each day.

I’ve broken up the central route into 10 stages here, which requires a couple of days where you’ll walk more than 30 km. If you prefer to not do that, I’ve noted how you can break up day 3 and day 6. I’ve also broken up the final stage, day 10, into two stages if you’d like to have a short final walk into Santiago de Compostela.

When is the best time of year to walk the central route?

The best time to walk the central route of the Portuguese Camino is April and October. The shoulder seasons of spring and fall give you the optimal combination of mild, comfortable weather and fewer pilgrims. You’ll have cool mornings and evenings, warm days, and a bit of rain. However, you’ll be able to experience the Camino before it reaches peak busyness during May, June, and September.

You might think that the summer would be a great time to walk the central route. While July and August are the driest months, temperatures can reach the low 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius). Unlike the coastal route, which gets a nice cooling breeze from the ocean, the central route is less forgiving. It’s still possible to go during the summer though – just start early in the morning so that you reach your destination before the temperature reaches its high in the afternoon.

Stages

Tiled street in Porto at dawn

Day 1: Porto to Vilarinho (26.95 km)

DistanceTown
6.68 kmPadrão de Légua
2.78 kmAraújo
2.37 kmPonte de Moreira
1.31 kmMoreira da Maia
3.45 kmVilar do Pinheiro
1.89 kmMosteiró
1.13 kmVilar (Vila do Conde)
2.73 kmGião
1.99 kmVairão
1.07 kmMonasterio de Vairão
1.55 kmVilarinho

Getting out of Porto is a lovely walk through cobblestone streets (the views are lovely, not the cobblestones). However, I recommend leaving early so you don’t have to weave through tourists. After about 4 km, you’ll eventually be out of the city center and in the suburbs surrounding Porto. If you started walking before sunrise, it would be a good idea to stop around this point and get breakfast. One of the best bakeries I stopped at on the Portuguese Camino is Molete Bread & Breakfast. Grab coffee and some of their delicious pastries.

Your first day on the central route is all roads and cobblestones. Aside from that, the walk is okay, although not particularly interesting. You’ll pass through a lot of towns, but there aren’t any standout sites.

Where to stay in Vilarinho

  • Casa da Laura (hostel) – Laura and Carlos, the owners of Casa da Laura, have created a welcoming, clean place for pilgrims to rest. They provide port wine, sweet treats, and a peaceful garden to lounge in. The hostel is just off of the main road (Rua Nova), where there’s a supermarket, pharmacy, cafés, and restaurants. They do take reservations – you can find their phone number and email address on their Facebook page.
  • Casa Família Vidal Vilarinho (hostel) – Having a pool is a luxury on the Camino. So although Casa Família Vidal Vilarinho is a hostel, it doesn’t feel like a hostel due to its pool and outdoor space. The hosts are friendly, the accommodations are clean, and you’re a short walk from multiple markets and places to grab food.

Day 2: Vilarinho to Barcelos (28.09 km)

DistanceTown
2.03 kmBagunte
2.03 kmSantagões
2.05 kmJunqueira
2.74 kmSão Miguel de Arcos
3.41 kmSão Pedro de Rates
2.90 kmCourel
3.39 kmPedra Furada
3.30 kmSilgueiros (Pereira)
2.38 kmCarvalhal
3.00 kmBarcelinhos
0.86 kmBarcelos

Strap in for more cobblestones and roads today, although the gorgeous views of the Portuguese countryside make it a little less painful. Once you reach Rates (São Pedro de Rates), you’ll finally switch over to a dirt road that takes you through trees and fields. Enjoy it while it lasts though, because you guessed it – you’ll soon be back on roads and cobblestones.

You’ll also cross over three medieval stone bridges on this day: Ponte Dom Zameiro, Ponte de São Miguel dos Arcos, and Ponte de Barcelos.

Where to stay in Barcelos

  • Albergue Cidade de Barcelos (public albergue) – Being donation-based, Albergue Cidade de Barcelos is the cheapest place to stay in Barcelos. They have a small kitchen, a few drying lines to hang your clothes, and a small courtyard.
  • In Barcelos Hostel & Guest House (hostel) – The In Barcelos Hostel & Guest House is a beautifully designed and modern hostel with both dorm and private rooms. A dorm bed is between 29 – 35€, which makes it an expensive option when compared to other accommodations on the Camino. You can make a reservation on their website or on Booking.com.
  • Residencial Kuarenta&Um (hotel) – For the same price as a dorm room at In Barcelos Hostel & Guest House, you can get your own room at Residencial Kuarenta&Um. A double room starts at 33€ per night on Booking.com.
  • Residencial Solar da Estação (hotel) – Residencial Solar da Estação offers private rooms starting at 35€ on Booking.com. However, it’s next to the Barcelos train station, so it might not be the best option for light sleepers.

Day 3: Barcelos to Ponte de Lima (33.66 km)

DistanceTown
2.90 kmVila Boa
2.17 kmRibeira (Lijó)
4.56 kmPortela de Tamel
1.34 kmAborim
3.18 kmPonte das Tábuas
2.22 kmBalugães
1.26 kmPoiares
2.01 kmCorgo
0.95 kmValinhas
1.27 kmIgreja
1.28 kmAlto de Albergaria
2.71 kmArribão
1.71 kmSobreiro
0.32 kmNabais
1.80 kmAnta
0.53 kmBouça
0.47 kmPaço
0.84 kmBarros (Correlhã)
2.14 kmPonte de Lima

Given how much distance you’ll be walking today, it’s best to get an early start. A lot of the route isn’t shaded, so if you’re walking during the summer, that’s another reason to set off before sunrise.

Ponte de Lima is the oldest town in Portugal, and it’s named after the bridge (ponte) and the river that runs next to it. As you approach Ponte de Lima, make sure to look toward your left at the Lima River (known as Limia in Spanish). You’ll have a wonderful view of the bridge with its five arches and the church that stands across the river. Make sure you also see the bridge lit up at night.

How to break up day 3 into two stages

Since day 3 is over 30 km and has two steep climbs, you might want to split this stage into two. One option is to stay in Corgo after 19.64 km. There’s an amazingly hospitable private albergue called Albergue De Peregrinos Casa Da Fernanda, which offers pilgrims a warm dinner and breakfast. Then, you’ll have 14.02 km to Ponte de Lima tomorrow.

An alternative is to walk 21.86 km to Igreja and stay at Casa Sagres, which would make your next day an easy 11.8 km to Ponte de Lima.

Where to stay in Ponte de Lima

  • Albergue de Peregrinos de Ponte de Lima (public albergue) – For only 5€, you’ll get a basic bed at Ponte de Lima’s public albergue. Although they don’t take reservations, the albergue is quite large – it can accommodate 60 pilgrims. Expect to share a large room with a lot of other people.
  • Pousada de Juventude de Ponte de Lima (hostel) – Although it’s not as cheap as the public albergue, Pousada de Juventude de Ponte de Lima is another budget-friendly option. While you get bed sheets and you’ll share a room with fewer pilgrims, the accommodation is otherwise kind of bleek with its bare concrete walls. It’s also outside of the city center where restaurants and shops are, so it might not be worth the higher price. Make a reservation here.
  • Residencial Retiro Senhora da Luz (guesthouse) – This guesthouse exudes cozy vibes and is very affordably priced, with private rooms starting at 18€ per night. However, the location isn’t the best, as it’s about a 15 to 20-minute walk to the historic center of Ponte de Lima. Book here.
  • Oldvillage Hostel (hostel) – Oldvillage Hostel’s interior features earth tones that create a homey feel. Unlike typical hostels where shared rooms are made up of dorm beds, Oldvillage’s rooms have a mix of single, double, and dorm beds. Shared rooms start at 30€ on Booking.com.

Day 4: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães (17.90 km)

DistanceTown
0.45 kmÁlém da Ponte
1.28 kmSabadão
1.38 kmArcozelo
2.28 kmRiba Rio
2.46 kmArco
0.54 kmCodeçal
1.37 kmLabruja
0.75 kmBandeira
2.31 kmAlto da Portela Grande
1.59 kmCabanas (Aqualonga)
1.33 kmAqualonga
0.93 kmSão Roque
1.23 kmRubiães

It’s a beautiful walk from Ponte de Lima to Rubiães – one filled with vineyards, lush greenery, and dirt roads. You’ll even come across a waterfall.

However, this is also the most challenging stage on the Camino Portugués central route because of the 400 m climb up Alto da Portela Grande de Labruja. Take a break at the top and take in sweeping views of the Portuguese hills.

Where to stay in Rubiães

  • Albergue de Peregrinos de S. Pedro de Rubiães (public albergue) – The public albergue in Rubiães costs 8€ and has a small garden with lounge chairs and tables. It sleeps up to 34 people and the beds are a bit tightly packed together. Although there is a café next door (Café São Sebastião), you’ll have to walk seven to 13 minutes to reach the nearest supermarket and two restaurants.
  • NINHO – The Pilgrim Nest (private albergue) – You can have a more comfortable and cozy stay for a just a few more euros than what you pay for the public albergue. NINHO, which is run by a sweet woman named Marlene, feels like staying with a relative or friend. They do take reservations – their contact info is listed on their Instagram and Facebook page.
  • Casa de São Sebastião (private albergue) – Casa de São Sebastião has the ultimate amenity on the Camino – a pool. You’ll want to stay here just for that, but there’s also plenty of other things that make this albergue an amazing choice. Sonia is a very friendly host, and her albergue offers comfortable beds, laundry, a beautiful garden, and breakfast. You’re also next to Café São Sebastião, where you can get food and drinks. Reservations are accepted. You can find their email address and WhatsApp phone number on their Facebook page.

Day 5: Rubiães to Tui (19.98 km)

DistanceTown
1.19 kmPonte Nova (Cossourado)
2.51 kmPecene
0.66 kmSão Bento da Porta Aberta
1.36 kmGontumil
1.17 kmPereira (Fontoura)
0.69 kmBárrio (Fontoura)
2.11 kmPaços
1.19 kmPedreira
2.25 kmGandra
1.39 kmArão
2.72 kmValença do Minho
2.74 kmTui

Today is your last day in Portugal, which means you’ll finally be crossing over to Spain! It’s a lovely final walk that’s mostly downhill and along tree-lined roads. Before you walk over the Minho River and into Tui, you’ll experience the unique walled town of Valença.

After walking through the fortress, you’ll arrive at Ponte Rodo-Ferroviária de Valença, the international bridge connecting Portugal and Spain. You can cross on both the left and right sides of the bridge, but I recommend going on the right for more scenic views. Also look out for the marking in the middle of the bridge that indicates the border between the two countries, so you can stand with one foot in Portugal and another foot in Spain.

Where to stay in Tui

  • Albergue de Peregrinos de Tui (public albergue) – Although it’s cheap (8€ per person) and next to the historic Tui Cathedral, the public albergue isn’t my first choice for where to stay. There’s a 10 PM curfew, so you’ll need to be in the albergue by then or you’ll get locked out. In my opinion, there are nicer public albergues along the Camino, so it’s worth it to spend a little bit more in Tui for a more comfortable place to stay.
  • Albergue Pallanes (private albergue) – Staying at Albergue Pallanes feels like staying in a large European estate, making it the best albergue that I stayed at while walking the central route. Its gated entrance, large backyard, and airy kitchen create a grandiose yet comfortable atmosphere. A dorm bed is 15€ and private rooms start at 24€ – secure your bed here.
  • Ideas Peregrinas (hostel) – Being right in the center of Tui and in front of the Camino, Ideas Peregrinas is an ideal place to stay. Shared rooms are available for 16€, and there are also private rooms with shared and private bathrooms. Everything you need is here, including a kitchen, a café downstairs, and a small shop with supplies and souvenirs. Make a reservation here.
  • A Troita Hostel (hostel) – A Troita Hostel is a 10-minute walk to the center of Tui. If you don’t mind being away from all the restaurants, you’ll have an amazing stay here. The hostel opened in the summer of 2023 with modern and beautiful facilities, including spacious bathrooms, lockers, and lots of common areas. Contact them directly to make a reservation.
  • Jacob’s Hostel Tui (hostel) – Jacob’s Hostel is another centrally located option. They only have shared beds, which cost 15€. The biggest downside to this hostel is that there’s only one toilet and shower for males and one for females. Reserve your spot here.
  • Hotel A Torre do Xudeu (hotel) – Since Tui is the starting point for the last 100 km of the Camino Portugués, there are lots of accommodations to choose from. Hotel A Torre do Xudeu is one of the best hotels that you can get at a reasonable price. Its location, right off of the Minho River, can’t be beat. The historic stone building has a lot of medieval charm, and breakfast is included. You can make a reservation here.

Day 6: Tui to Redondela (32.69 km)

DistanceTown
1.15 kmSan Bartolomé de Rebordans
0.48 kmA Picoña
1.26 kmVirxe do Camiño
4.22 kmRibadelouro (A Magdalena)
1.17 kmOrbenlle
2.74 kmQuintenla
1.20 kmCenteáns
0.28 kmPontellas
0.30 kmSan Campio
1.00 kmTorneiros
3.55 kmO Porriño
1.73 kmCoto Filgueiras
0.64 kmAmeiro Longo
0.98 kmVeigadaña
1.59 kmA Rúa (Mos)
2.04 kmSantiaguiño de Antas
2.70 kmGalleiro
2.15 kmSaxamonde (Padrón)
3.51 kmRedondela

Tui marks the last 100 km of the Portuguese Camino de Santiago. Since this is the least amount of distance that pilgrims need to do in order to receive the Compostela (the certificate of completion), you’ll notice an increase in pilgrims from here on out.

I found the route between Tui and Redondela to be largely uninteresting. The exception is when you’re about 3 to 4 km away from Redondela. As you start a steep descent, you’re met with breathtaking views of Galicia’s hilly landscape, dotted with orange-roofed houses. You’ll also eventually come across a life-size pilgrim cutout that makes a memorable photo opp.

How to break up day 6 into two stages

To split this day into two stages, stop at O Porriño. Then, go from O Porriño to Redondela the next day. This divides the distance into 17.35 km and 15.34 km.

Where to stay in Redondela

  • Albergue de Peregrinos Casa da Torre (public albergue) – The historic Casa da Torre houses a nicely renovated public albergue. Although you still have the metal bunk beds and plastic mattresses with disposable covers, the bathrooms are clean and modern. Because it only sleeps 34 people, it can fill up quickly, so it’s best to get there by the early to mid-afternoon in order to guarantee yourself a bed. As with most public albergues, it costs 8€.
  • Albergue Parroquial Santiago Apostol de Redondela (private albergue) – This parish-run albergue is a bit more expensive than a public albergue. For 12€, you get pretty much the same type of facilities as you would at a public albergue. This makes it less appealing, since you can stay at a nicer private albergue for roughly the same price. However, the biggest perk of staying here is they provide a free washing machine. You can book directly on their website.
  • Albergue A Conserveira (private albergue) – Although Albergue A Conserveira has one huge room that sleeps up to 40 people, I didn’t mind at all because they’ve created makeshift rooms with two to four beds in each. Each “room” has curtains at the entrance that you can close for some privacy. There’s also a large laundry room with plenty of drying racks, multiple washing machines, and a small kitchen and dining area. While you aren’t able to book a specific “room” in advance, you should still book a bed. When I arrived in the afternoon, there were plenty of empty compartments to choose from. The group that I walked with was able to get our own “room.”
  • Albergue A Rotonda (hostel) – Albergue A Rotonda is a fantastic family-run hostel. If you’re tired of climbing bunk bed ladders, you’ll be happy to know that they don’t have bunk beds. Everyone gets a single bed with a nightstand, outlet, and lots of hangers. It’s a small place with only 10 beds, so make sure you reserve a place in advance.

Day 7: Redondela to Pontevedra (19.64 km)

DistanceTown
1.58 kmZacande
1.39 kmCesantes
1.22 kmSoutoxusto
2.75 kmArcade
1.19 kmPontesampaio
2.10 kmCacheiro
1.65 kmBergunde
1.11 kmAlcouce
1.72 kmGanderón Santa Marta
0.34 kmO Pobo
1.41 kmO Lusquinos
0.69 kmO Marco
2.49 kmPontevedra

The way to Pontevedra had a few surprises that made it one of the more pleasant segments of the Portuguese Camino. There are a few collections of Camino shells that have been left by pilgrims and vendors selling snacks, drinks, and Camino knick-knacks. My favorite find though was the adorable parish of Ponte Sampaio, which has a bridge from the Middle Ages and narrow, winding streets.

Pontevedra was also one of my favorite stops on the Camino. Its old town, one of the largest and most elegant historic quarters in the whole of Galicia, has been well preserved and is pedestrian-only.

Where to stay in Pontevedra

  • Albergue de Peregrinos Virgen Peregrina (public albergue) – After going through a renovation in the summer of 2023, Albergue Virgen Peregrina now offers modern bathrooms and a fairly large kitchen. It’s a large albergue, accommodating up to 56 pilgrims, so it does get crowded during the busy season. The location of the albergue isn’t great though, as it’s a 20-minute walk to the center of Pontevedra.
  • Nacama Hostel (hostel) – I had an extremely comfortable stay at Nacama Hostel for 20€. The reception staff were friendly, the beds had privacy curtains, the bathrooms were clean, and there’s a large common area where you can get ready in the morning. Note that while they have a kitchen, there is no stove. You can make a reservation here.
  • dpaso Urban Hostel (hostel) – dpaso is another fantastic option priced at 20€. Between the curtain and the enclosed design, the beds provide a lot of privacy. You’re in for a good night’s rest, so book your bed now.
  • Acolá Hostel (hostel) – For 21€, you can stay at Acolá Hostel, which is on the north end of Pontevedra. It’s a small hostel, with only 16 beds and one toilet and shower each for males and females. However, every bed is equipped with a privacy curtain, light, and outlet. You also get a locker and a small kitchen with free coffee, tea, fruit, and pastries. Reserve your spot here.
People walking and biking in the evening in Pontevedra

Day 8: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis (21.04 km)

DistanceTown
0.95 kmO Burgo
2.14 kmPontecabras
1.34 kmAlba
1.39 kmO Castrado-Leborei
2.87 kmSan Amaro
1.13 kmA Cancela
1.50 kmSan Antoñino (Barro)
3.65 kmA Seca
1.90 kmBriallos
2.47 kmTivo
1.70 kmCaldas de Reis

If you can time it right, I recommend walking out of Pontevedra as the sun rises. Crossing the bridge Ponte do Burgo, you’ll see the colors of the sky reflected in the Lérez River.

About 3 km from Pontevedra, you’ll see where the spiritual variant diverts from the central route. If you want to take the spiritual variant, follow the sign to turn left.

On this day, you’ll experience a bit of everything: dirt trails through ivy-covered forests, roads that run next to corn fields, and paths that bring you underneath grape vines.

Where to stay in Caldas de Reis

  • Albergue GBC Caldas – Celenis (private albergue) – With its large garden and indoor pool, Albergue GBC Caldas – Celenis feels like a pilgrim’s oasis. It costs 18€, and if you’d like to use the pool, it’s an additional 5€. The one downside is that it’s a bit off of the Camino path. Reserve here.
  • Albergue Agarimo (hostel) – Albergue Agarimo is a quaint hostel with shared and private rooms. A shared room costs 15€ and private rooms start at 20€, so it may be worth treating yourself to a bit of privacy for one night. Even if you choose a shared room, you’ll get a single bed and only have to share the room with two other people. Grab your spot here.
  • Apartamento Terra de Augas (apartment) – If you’re traveling with a group, Apartamento Terra de Augas could be a better option than staying at an albergue or hostel. The apartment has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and can fit up to six people. You also get a fully-equipped kitchen, a terrace, and a TV. Book the apartment here.

Day 9: Caldas de Reis to Padrón (19.20 km)

DistanceTown
1.83 kmA Lavandeira
3.66 kmCarracedo (Cruceiro)
0.43 kmO Campo
0.62 kmCortiñas
0.22 kmGorgullón
1.34 kmCasalderrique
0.77 kmCernadas
1.38 kmAldea de O Pino (Lugar de Magariños)
2.30 kmSan Miguel de Valga
2.58 kmCondide
0.98 kmPontecesures
3.09 kmPadrón

It’s a relatively short walk on roads and next to fields today. About 11 km from Caldas de Reis, you’ll come across a beautiful old Catholic church and cemetery. At this point, it’d be a good idea to take a break since there are two cafés/restaurants: Buen Camino and Café Bar San Miguel.

When you reach Padrón, you must visit Dulcinea Repostería Artesanal. This small café and bakery serves the best breakfast I had on the entire Camino and a tempting selection of cakes.

Where to stay in Padrón

  • Albergue de Peregrinos de Padrón (public albergue) – Expect close quarters at this public albergue, which sleeps 46 people and costs 8€. You may also need to wait for the bathroom here because there are only two showers and one toilet for males and females each.
  • Albergue Corredoiras (private albergue) – Albergue Corredoiras is a superb accommodation with a well-stocked kitchen that includes complimentary tea, coffee, and milk. Best of all, they wash and dry your clothes for free – a rarity on the Camino. At 17€ on Booking.com, it’s priced around the same as other private albergues.
  • Albergue Camiño do Sar (private albergue) – Albergue Camiño do Sar is located at the entrance of Padrón, which means it’ll take you a bit longer to get out of the town tomorrow. But if you don’t mind that, it’s another clean, well-run private albergue. By being outside of the town, it’s also quieter. You can book here.
  • Albergue & Rooms Murgadán (hostel) – This centrally located hostel has shared rooms and private rooms at affordable prices. It’s clean, the bunk beds have curtains, and Raul, the host, is attentive and welcoming. Make a reservation here.

Day 10: Padrón to Santiago de Compostela (24.48 km)

DistanceTown
1.05 kmIria Flavia
1.82 kmCambelas
0.57 kmRomarís
0.94 kmTarrío
0.85 kmVilar
0.90 kmA Escravitude
0.34 kmCruces
1.61 kmAngueira de Suso
0.63 kmO Areal
0.42 kmA Picaraña
1.24 kmO Faramello
0.93 kmRúa de Francos
1.09 kmOsebe
0.65 kmRiotinto
0.33 kmLugar de Pedreira
1.19 kmRaíces
2.68 kmO Milladoiro
1.22 kmPorto de Conxo
1.10 kmA Rocha Vella
4.92 kmSantiago de Compostela

Congratulations, you’ve reached the end of the Camino Portugués! On your last day, you’ll mostly stay in rural areas and small towns, but once you reach O Milladoiro, the landscape shifts significantly. It becomes more urban and you’ll be walking on roads and sidewalks for the rest of the way.

Soon you’ll reach Santiago de Compostela and enter its Old Town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You’ll know it by the maze of narrow stone streets. In the Old Town, the yellow arrows fade away. Don’t worry. Your final destination is the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, so just follow the streets until you’re there and then celebrate the fact that you’ve made it!

How to break up day 10 into two stages

Although this isn’t a long day distance-wise, walking 24 km means you’ll arrive in Santiago in the afternoon. This is when most people arrive, so there may be a long line to receive your Compostela and the plaza in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela will be filled with pilgrims and tourists.

To arrive earlier in the day, I recommend breaking up this last stage into two days. From Padrón, walk to O Milladoiro and stay the night. You’ll cover 17.24 km and only need to walk 7.21 km from O Milladoiro to Santiago de Compostela. You can enjoy your final walk on the Camino and arrive in Santiago in the morning.

However, if you don’t want to add an extra day to your schedule, here’s what I did. Instead of stopping in Padrón on day 9, continue past it until you reach Ameneiro, which is a very small town before Raíces. I stayed at Albergue Casa Aldea da Pedreira, a gorgeous private albergue with an on-site coffee truck and large backyard. This means you’ll walk about 33 km on day 9, leaving you with roughly 11 km to Santiago de Compostela on day 10.

Where to stay in Santiago de Compostela

Aside from drawing all the people who are doing the Camino de Santiago, Santiago de Compostela is also a popular tourist destination. Between the spring and fall, accommodations get filled quickly, so I recommend figuring out which day you’ll arrive and making a reservation at least one week in advance.

Private albergues and hostels

Hotels and guesthouses

Additional resources for the Camino Portugués

Camino Portuguese Guide to the Central Route

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Camino Portuguese Coastal Route: Guide, Stages, and Map https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-portuguese-coastal-route-guide/ https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-portuguese-coastal-route-guide/#respond Mon, 17 Jul 2023 00:11:10 +0000 https://staging.flcchn.com/?p=2683 Get the complete guide to the Portuguese Camino de Santiago coastal route. See all the stages and recommended places to stay and eat.

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The Camino Portugués, or Portuguese Camino, is one of the most popular routes on the Camino de Santiago. From Porto, you can choose between walking the Camino Portugués coastal route or central route.

The coastal route brings you along the beautiful coasts of Portugal and Spain, and it’s one of the best parts of the Camino Portugués. You’ll visit many seaside towns and cities, cool down with the ocean breeze, and relax on beaches. The coastal route eventually merges with the central route in Redondela. From there, all pilgrims follow one path to reach Santiago de Compostela.

Overview of the Camino Portugués coastal route

  • Distance: 268 km or 167 miles
  • Number of days to complete: 12 to 14 days
  • Starting point: Porto, Portugal
  • End point: Santiago de Compostela, Spain
  • Terrain: Coastline, beaches, boardwalks, roads
  • Accommodation: Public and private albergues, hostels, guesthouses, and hotels

How long is the coastal route?

The Camino Portugués coastal route is 268 km or 167 miles long, and it takes 12 to 14 days to complete. If you decide to take the Senda Litoral variant or the unofficial parts that strictly follow the coast, your total distance will be more.

When is the best time of year to walk the coastal route?

The best time to walk the coastal route is during the spring, summer, and fall (from mid-April to October). You want to avoid the winter, as you’ll battle rain and strong winds.

The spring and fall will be the most pleasant times to do the coastal route. There’s less chance of rain and comfortable temperatures. Make sure you pack layers though, so you’re prepared for all types of weather.

The peak of summer, July and August, can be really hot. Sections of the coastal route that run next to the coast usually have no shade, so I recommend getting an early start. There will also be more pilgrims on the Camino, although the coastal route doesn’t get as busy as the central route.

The Senda Litoral variant

Before you start planning your route, it’s important to know about the Senda Litoral variant. The Senda Litoral sticks to the coast, while the coastal route brings you inland in multiple spots. As a result, the Senda Litoral is longer and you can go long stretches without any cafés, bars, or restaurants to fuel up. However, the two routes merge throughout. So regardless of which one you take, you’ll stay in the same towns.

When choosing between the coastal route and the Senda Litoral variant, I recommend making your decision based on how much of the coast you want to see and how much distance you’d like to walk.

Stages

Day 1: Porto to Vila do Conde (28.57 km)

DistanceTown
6.52 kmPadrão da Légua
1.35 kmCustóias
2.58 kmCarvalhas
2.13 kmPedras Rubras
2.14 kmVila Nova da Telha
2.37 kmAveleda
1.98 kmLabruge
2.21 kmModivas – Vila Chã
2.04 kmMindelo
2.40 kmAreia (Árvore)
1.45 kmAzurara
1.40 kmVila do Conde

Heading out of Porto early in the morning was a special moment. The streets were quiet, empty of tourists, and the city was just starting to wake up. As the sun finally came up, I stopped at Molete Bread & Breakfast, one of the best Portuguese bakeries I visited on the Camino Portugués. Although the place was packed with locals (always a good sign), the lady who served us was a delight.

The bakery was the highlight of my walk this day because after that, the rest of the way to Vila do Conde was pretty boring. You’ll pass by Porto’s airport and a large outlet shopping, VC Fashion Outlet | Modivas. The outlets are the first place outside of the suburbs of Porto where it’d be good to make a stop. You can pop into any of the stores for air conditioning, pick up food at the Continente supermarket, or get lunch at one of the restaurants in the outlet mall.

As I got closer to Vila do Conde, there were options to take a rest and grab a bite to eat. I had lunch at Snack-Bar O Mundo in Areia, which was a much-needed rest and left me with just under 3 km to go until Vila do Conde.

Day 1 Senda Litoral variant (33.26 km)

You can also take the Senda Litoral to get out of Porto. It’s significantly longer but much more scenic and nicer to walk. You’ll enjoy boardwalks and coastal views while skipping all the concrete and roads that make up the coastal route on the first stage.

DistanceTown
4.97 kmFoz do Douro
5.03 kmMatosinhos
2.36 kmLeça da Palmeira
3.67 kmPerafita (Aldeia Nova)
3.13 kmPraia de Angeiras (Lavra)
4.20 kmLabruge
2.18 kmVila Chã
2.13 kmMindelo
2.38 kmAreia (Árvore)
0.84 kmAzurara
2.37 kmVila do Conde

Where to stay in Vila do Conde

  • Albergue de Peregrinos Santa Clara (public albergue) – I stayed here for €10 and the facilities were quite nice. There’s a nice rooftop to hang out on, a small kitchen, and a large dining area. There’s only a few showers, so you might have to wait your turn. Also, outlets aren’t conveniently placed by every bed. The albergue takes pilgrims on a first-come, first-serve basis, so I recommend arriving before or as soon as they open to secure a bed. If all beds are full, they have extra mattresses they’ll pull out for pilgrims.
  • HI Vila do Conde – Pousada de Juventude (hostel)

Day 2: Vila do Conde to Esposende (23.60 km)

DistanceTown
3.37 kmPóvoa de Varzim
3.33 kmA Ver o-Mar
3.72 kmAguçadoura
3.78 kmEstela
2.94 kmApúlia
3.83 kmFão
2.64 kmEsposende

Whether you decided to take the coastal route or the Senda Litoral variant on the first day, day two is a short and sweet route that gives your legs a bit of a break.

The walk between Vila do Conde and Esposende is really enjoyable. For the most part, you’ll stick to the coast and walk on wooden boardwalks. There are a few opportunities to get drinks or food.

With such a short walk and a reserved bed waiting for me in Esposende, I was in no rush this day and had a nice break on the beach in the afternoon before carrying on.

Where to stay in Esposende

Signpost on the Camino Portugues coastal route

Day 3: Esposende to Viana do Castelo (25.27 km)

DistanceTown
4.36 kmMarinhas
2.47 kmMar
1.28 kmBelinho
2.26 kmAntas
1.48 kmCastelo do Neiva
4.28 kmSão Romão de Neiva
1.46 kmChafé
2.42 kmVila Nova de Anha
2.53 kmDarque
2.73 kmViana do Castelo

The walk from Esposende to Viana do Castelo has a few climbs, but it’s one of the more memorable parts of the coastal route. You’ll come across the Igreja de Santiago de Castelo de Neiva, where you can get a stamp, use the bathroom, and stop to rest. I loved seeing all the little Camino symbols and statues in and around the cathedral.

You’ll also walk through a lovely forest and cross the Rio Nieva. After exiting the forest, I stumbled upon a pilgrim’s dream – a rest stop that had been put together by a local. The makeshift seating area had coolers with cold drinks, snacks, fresh fruit, and coffee. There was music playing and a notebook where you could leave a message.

Where to stay in Viana do Castelo

Day 4: Viana do Castelo to Caminha (27.29 km)

DistanceTown
5.01 kmAreosa
3.61 kmCarreço
3.99 kmAfife
3.31 kmÃncora
2.69 kmVila Praia de Ãncora
4.86 kmMoledo
3.82 kmCaminha

The walk out of Viana do Castelo is beautiful. You’ve got the sunrise, beach views, and Monte de Santa Luzia rising from the middle of the town.

Your route today sticks to the coast entirely. This is one of the best stretches on the coastal route. However, there may be fewer cafés and restaurants open depending on the time of year you go. Once I got out of Viana do Castelo, nothing was open until I reached Vila Praia de Ãncora. Because of that, I recommend getting breakfast in Viana do Castelo and packing lots of snacks.

Where to stay in Caminha

Day 5: Caminha to Viladesuso (21.10 km)

DistanceTown
1.30 kmCamposancos
3.09 kmA Guarda
6.76 kmPortecelo
6.29 kmOia
3.66 kmO Serrallo (Viladesuso)

Instead of walking, you’ll be taking a small speedboat today to cross the Minho River, which forms part of the border between Portugal and Spain. The boat ride is a fun and unique experience that other Camino routes don’t offer.

Aside from a change of transportation, this day also marks your entry into Spain! If this is your first Camino, it’s interesting to see how the landscape, architecture, and food changes. And don’t forget you’ll need to switch over from Portuguese to Spanish.

Xacobeo Transfer and Taxi Boat Peregrinos both operate boat rides for €6, and it’s best to book your ride in advance. Note that depending on the tides, your boat may set sail later than scheduled.

Where to stay in Viladesuso

Day 6: Villadesuso to Baiona (14.90 km)

DistanceTown
2.80 kmO Porto (Mougás)
1.75 kmPedra Rubia
2.59 kmAs Mariñas
3.40 kmO Cabreiro
0.96 kmO Sinal
1.84 kmPercibilleira
1.56 kmBaiona

Enjoy the very short walking day! It’s filled with breathtaking views as you continue along the coast and climb two significant hills.

With less distance to cover, hopefully you’ll still have energy left to walk around the coastal town of Baiona. There are a few small beaches, like Praia da Ribeira and Praia da Barbeira, and historical sights. Baiona is best known as the place where Christopher Columbus’s La Pinta moored in 1493. There’s not only a replica of the ship, but the town also celebrates the event every March 1 with a medieval festival.

Where to stay in Baiona

Day 7: Baiona to Vigo (26.28 km)

DistanceTown
3.19 kmSabarís
1.45 kmA Ramallosa
3.80 kmNigrán
3.92 kmPriegue
0.90 kmSaiáns
2.86 kmOia
1.35 kmCoruxo
8.81 kmVigo

To get to Vigo, you can either take the official route, which takes you inland, or simply follow the coast. To follow the more coastal but unofficial route, turn left after crossing the bridge in A Ramallosa and continue by keeping the water on your left. Although it’s not well-marked, the unofficial route is more peaceful and quiet.

Vigo is a large city that’s become a fishing, industrial, and tourism center of Galicia. The city is wonderful place to walk around. And if you decide to climb its hills, you’ll get sweeping views of all the red and orange-roofed buildings contrasted against the blue inlet.

Where to stay in Vigo

Day 8: Vigo to Redondela (16.39 km)

DistanceTown
5.15 kmSenda da Auga (Teis)
1.69 kmSenda da Auga (Chapela)
3.54 kmSenda da Auga (Trasmañó)
3.67 kmCedeira
2.34 kmRedondela

Vigo is the starting point of the last 100 km to Santiago de Compostela. It’s the least distance you need to walk in order to get your certificate of completion. Because of this, you’ll notice there are more pilgrims from here on out.

Also, don’t forget that you’ll need to start collecting two stamps each day for the last 100 km to get the pilgrim’s certificate.

Where to stay in Redondela

Medieval town across the bridge Ponte Medieval de Pontesampaio

Day 9: Redondela to Pontevedra (19.64 km)

DistanceTown
1.58 kmZacande
1.39 kmCesantes
1.22 kmSoutoxusto
2.75 kmArcade
1.19 kmPontesampaio
2.10 kmCacheiro
1.65 kmBergunde
1.11 kmAlcouce
1.72 kmGanderón Santa Marta
0.34 kmO Pobo
1.41 kmO Lusquinos
0.69 kmO Marco
2.49 kmPontevedra

Redondela is where the coastal and central routes combine into one. If you’ve been enjoying the peace and quiet of the coastal route, you’ll need to adjust to walking with more pilgrims and busier albergues now. Going forward, I advise you to book a bed one day in advance or to arrive early to your accommodation, especially if you’re walking during the busy summer season.

The walk to Pontevedra brings you across the medieval bridge Ponte Medieval de Pontesampaio and through shaded trails.

Pontevedra is one of my favorite cities I discovered on the Portuguese Camino. It’s car-free old town has kept all its historic charm and architecture, while adding modern shops and restaurants.

Where to stay in Pontevedra

Day 10: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis (21.04 km)

DistanceTown
0.95 kmO Burgo
2.14 kmPontecabras
1.34 kmAlba
1.39 kmO Castrado-Leborei
2.87 kmSan Amaro
1.13 kmA Cancela
1.50 kmSan Antoñino (Barro)
3.65 kmA Seca
1.90 kmBriallos
2.47 kmTivo
1.70 kmCaldas de Reis

From Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis, you’ll walk through beautiful forests, farms, and vineyards. This is also the point where you can veer off to take the Variante Espiritual, or spiritual variant of the Camino Portugués. The turnoff is about 3 km after Pontevedra. There’s a large, clear sign, so you can’t miss it.

Caldas de Reis is known for its thermal springs. If you’re feeling motivated after getting into town, visiting one of the springs would be a fantastic way to relax and relieve your tired muscles.

Where to stay in Caldas de Reis

Day 11: Caldas de Reis to Padrón (19.20 km)

DistanceTown
1.83 kmA Lavandeira
3.66 kmCarracedo (Cruceiro)
0.43 kmO Campo
0.62 kmCortiñas
0.22 kmGorgullón
1.34 kmCasalderrique
0.77 kmCernadas
1.38 kmAldea de O Pino (Lugar de Magariños)
2.30 kmSan Miguel de Valga
2.58 kmCondide
0.98 kmPontecesures
3.09 kmPadrón

Padrón is known for its padrón peppers, one of the best foods you have to try on the Camino Portugués. Aside from its peppers, Padrón is a small, quaint town with historical significance. The remains of Saint James the Great were brought to Padrón from Jerusalem.

I actually didn’t stay in Padrón. Instead, I carried on until Ameneiro, which is just before Raíces. While this brought my total distance on this day up to 33 km, it meant I only needed to walk 11 km the next day. By only having a short distance to walk into Santiago de Compostela, I’d get there early before most pilgrims and have enough energy left to play tourist for the rest of the day.

However, I did stop in Padrón for breakfast and found the absolute best breakfast I had on the entire Camino. Dulcinea Repostería Artesanal was one of my proudest finds. It’s a bakery that serves an American breakfast of pancakes, bacon, and eggs. If you’ve been missing a hearty, complete breakfast like this, you’ve got to make a stop here.

Where to stay in Padrón

Day 12: Padrón to Santiago de Compostela (24.48 km)

DistanceTown
1.05 kmIria Flavia
1.82 kmCambelas
0.57 kmRomarís
0.94 kmTarrío
0.85 kmVilar
0.90 kmA Escravitude
0.34 kmCruces
1.61 kmAngueira de Suso
0.63 kmO Areal
0.42 kmA Picaraña
1.24 kmO Faramello
0.93 kmRúa de Francos
1.09 kmOsebe
0.65 kmRiotinto
0.33 kmLugar de Pedreira
1.19 kmRaíces
2.68 kmO Milladoiro
1.22 kmPorto de Conxo
1.10 kmA Rocha Vella
4.92 kmSantiago de Compostela

Congratulations, it’s your last day on the Camino! Reaching Santiago de Compostela is a celebratory but bittersweet moment.

I recommend getting a very early start this day. The later you arrive in Santiago, the more crowded it’ll be. For the best photos in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, you’ll need to arrive in the morning, when the plaza in front of the cathedral is still fairly empty. The other advantage of reaching Santiago early is you won’t have to wait in line for your Compostela (the certificate of completion). Lines can be up to a few hours long during peak season.

Where to stay in Santiago de Compostela

Accommodations in Santiago de Compostela book up fast with pilgrims and tourists. I recommend booking a place at least a week in advance if you can.

Private albergues and hostels

Hotels and guesthouses

Additional resources for the Camino Portugués

Camino Portuguese Guide to the Coastal Route

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Complete Camino de Santiago Packing List for Women https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-de-santiago-packing-list-for-women/ https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-de-santiago-packing-list-for-women/#respond Mon, 22 May 2023 18:59:54 +0000 https://staging.flcchn.com/?p=2055 This Camino de Santiago packing list for females has everything you need for a successful pilgrimage. See the essential items to pack and tips to keep your backpack light.

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Carrying everything on your back for 15 to 30+ km isn’t something you do every day. But walking the Camino de Santiago, that becomes your every day. The only way to make it through this physical challenge is to be smart about what you pack.

This Camino de Santiago packing list for females is best suited for warm weather. If you’re walking the Camino between May and September, you can follow this list as is. If you’re walking the Camino during the winter or early spring, pay attention to the notes I’ve included below on how to modify this list.

Packing tips

Pack light: The general rule of thumb is your pack shouldn’t weigh more than 10% of your body weight. Some people are okay with carrying 15%. I overpacked and was carrying around 18% of my body weight. I own that decision since I was also traveling for seven months. But just because I did it, doesn’t mean you should. It’s better to underpack than overpack. Your shoulders and back will thank you for it. If you’re having a difficult time getting the weight of your backpack down to something that’s comfortable, you can shed things as you walk along the Camino. Anything that you end up not using and are willing to leave behind, you can donate to an albergue. There are also luggage transfer services like El Camino con Correos and Caminofácil, if you find yourself struggling with weight.

If you forget something, you can buy it when you arrive or along the way: Don’t stress out if you realize you missed something from this list. No matter which Camino route you do, you’ll land in a major city where you can pick up last-minute items. Every route also passes through a few major cities where you can stock up on anything you’ve run out of that you can’t find in smaller towns. Your last option, should you need it, is to ask other pilgrims. The communal aspect of the Camino brings people from all over the world together, and you’ll find that many of them will help when you need it.

Prioritize comfort over looks: No one cares what you look like, and what you wear definitely won’t be the most memorable part of your Camino. You’re walking for five to eight hours every day, so do whatever it takes to make it as comfortable and pleasant as you can.

Choose a 40L backpack or smaller: A 40 liter backpack will have more than enough room to hold everything you need. The smaller your backpack is, the less likely you’ll bring unnecessary items. So if a 30 or 35L pack works for you, don’t be tempted to choose a larger backpack. If you’re walking the Camino in the colder months, you might need to size up by 5 liters or a bit more. I used the Osprey Women’s Fairview 40 Travel Backpack and it was perfect. The clamshell opening made it really easy to pack and unpack, the compression straps were effective, and the straps and hip belt were comfortable.

Embrace the minimalist mindset: The Camino forces you to think about what’s essential. Do you really need that extra piece of clothing or is it just a nice to have? It’s a great exercise that’ll show you actually need much less than you think. There’s also something extremely freeing about having everything you need and nothing more, so lean into that. After the Camino, you might even be inspired to declutter and simplify your life.

Clothing

Four t-shirts, one tank top, two zip-up jackets, and a packable rain jacket flat lay on a wooden floor
  • 3 tops – You want to have two tops that you’ll wear when walking and one top to change into after you’ve showered. I took one tank and three short-sleeve shirts. I thought having the tank top would be great for really hot days, but I ended up rarely ever wearing it. I preferred to have my shoulders covered against the sun, and I noticed that my backpack straps would rub against my bare shoulders.
  • 2 sports bras
  • 3 pairs of underwear – I’m a fan of ExOfficio’s Give-N-Go Bikini Briefs. Although they’re pricey, they’re lightweight, pack down small, and dry fast.
  • 3 pairs of socks – I tried out Injinji toe socks for the first time on the Camino and recommend them for preventing blisters between the toes. I had one pair of the Women’s Ultra Run No-Show and one pair of the Run Original Weight No-Show. I prefer the Run Original Weight because the sock is a bit thicker. It provides a bit more cushioning, which prevents my heel from rubbing against the shoe. Even though I’d absolutely use toe socks for future Caminos, they weren’t perfect. I did get three small blisters on my heel. They were easy to manage though – I just put a bandaid over them.
  • 3 shorts or pants – I overpacked when it came to bottoms. I brought two pairs of running shorts, a pair of denim shorts, three-quarter leggings, and skinny jeans when I walked the Camino in September. I didn’t wear my skinny jeans and barely wore my leggings. I realized my legs didn’t mind being in shorts during the colder mornings and evenings. If your legs get cold easily though, three-quarter or full-length leggings would be a great option. Whatever you decide to bring, make sure one of your bottoms is something comfortable that you can lounge around in once you’re done walking for the day.
  • Hat – I’m a fan of running caps, since they’re lightweight, can be washed, and dry fast. An alternative is a sun hat with a brim that goes all the way around.
  • Hoodie or sweater – You want to have a comfortable second layer for hanging out in the evenings. Unlike the outerwear I’ve listed below, this should be only worn once you’re clean.
  • Outerwear – It’s often chilly in the morning, so you’ll need a second layer if you start walking early. I recommend either a windbreaker or a fleece zip-up. It also comes in handy when you’re battling strong winds along the coast, like on the Camino Portugués coastal route.
  • Flip flops or sandals – Trust me, you’ll want to air out your feet at the end of each day. Plus, you need something to wear in the shower.
  • Walking shoes – Hiking boots and trail runners are the most popular choices. Depending on which Camino you do, hiking boots might be overkill. So research what kind of terrain to expect on your route before choosing your footwear. I walked the Camino Portugués, which is mostly flat and made up of paved roads, cobblestones, and dirt trails. I brought two pairs of ASICS Women’s Gel-Kayano Running Shoes so I could switch between them every day, and they worked out perfectly. They’re my go-to running shoe so I knew they’d be comfortable, fit my feet perfectly, and provide the cushioning I’d need.
  • Sunglasses
  • Rain jacket or poncho – Either a quality rain jacket or poncho is a must. My Columbia Women’s Switchback II Jacket works well in light rain, but didn’t hold up when I ran into a few days of heavy rain on the Camino Portugués. Luckily, I was able to find a poncho in town, and that saved me and my bag from getting soaked. Not sure whether your rain jacket will weather all-day rain storms? Pack both a jacket and poncho then.
  • Buff (optional) – One of the most unexpectedly useful item I brought was my buff. I wore it around my neck every day to protect the back of my neck from getting sunburnt. Buffs are really handy since they can also be used as an eye mask, head band, and neck warmer.
  • Pajamas (optional) – I brought a pair of shorts and a t-shirt as my pajamas, but only wore them a few times. Many pilgrims sleep in what they’ll wear the next day, which is what I ended up doing. When you don’t need to change in the morning, you can get out the door faster and it’s one less thing you need to pack.

Clothing modifications for the winter

If you’re walking during the winter or colder months, you’ll need to bring some additional clothing:

The best type of clothing for the Camino de Santiago

When choosing your clothes for the Camino, pay attention to the material. You want quick drying and moisture-wicking clothing. These are typically made from merino wool and synthetics like polyester and nylon. In the summer, choose clothes that are breathable and will keep you cool. And in the winter and cooler months, choose clothes that will keep you warm while being breathable.

Pockets are a must too. The more pockets, the more things you can stash away within easy reach. Look for pants, tights, shorts, and outerwear with plenty of pockets for storing your phone, wallet, and snacks.

Toiletries

  • Travel size bottles – Decant all your liquids into travel size bottles that are 3.4 oz/100 ml or less. You should absolutely not bring full-size bottles with you.
  • Toiletry bag – Store all your toiletries in a water-resistant bag that can be hung from a hook or door. I love this Wayfarer Supply Hanging Travel Toiletry Bag that I’ve been using for four years. It easily holds all my toiletries, has lots of compartments for organization, and has a sturdy hook.
  • Body wash or soap
  • Shampoo – Instead of a small bottle of liquid shampoo, I recommend taking a bar instead. Shampoo bars weigh less and last longer. Lush has a variety of shampoo bars so you’ll be able to find something for your hair and scalp type. I used their Jumping Juniper shampoo bar, which is great for oily hair.
  • Conditioner – Some people can go without conditioner. I’m not one of them. But if that’s you, skip it so you can cut down on the weight of your bag.
  • Face wash – If you’re able to use your body wash for your face, this is another area where you can minimize what you pack.
  • Toothpaste
  • Toothbrush
  • Floss
  • Hairbrush
  • Hair ties and clips
  • Lotion
  • Sunscreen
  • Deodorant
  • Laundry soap – Some albergues will have soap that you can use, but not all of them do. It’s best to carry either a bar of soap or liquid soap for all the handwashing you’ll do every day.
  • Quick dry towel
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Vaseline – Vaseline is the perfect multi-purpose item for keeping your lips moisturized and preventing blisters and chafing. Some pilgrims slather their feet before putting socks on and swear it’s the best solution for having a blister-free Camino.
  • Feminine pads, tampons, or a menstrual cup
  • Razor
  • Nail clippers

Tips for cutting down your toiletries

Get multi-purpose products: There’s a few places where you can combine multiple products into one to save space and weight. Instead of having separate shampoo and conditioner, get a 2-in-1. You can also combine body wash, face wash, and laundry soap with something like Campsuds, a concentrated all-purpose soap. I used it on my Camino as body wash and laundry soap, and I loved that a little bit of it goes a long way.

Swap liquids for solids: Liquid toiletries weigh more and get used faster than solids. After a month on the Camino and washing my hair twice a week, I had barely made a dent in the shampoo bar I bought.

Electronics

  • Headlamp and batteries – If you plan on walking early in the morning before the sun is up, using a headlamp is more convenient than the flashlight on your phone. But if you’re a late riser and won’t start your walk until there’s some sunlight, then leave the headlamp at home. In a pinch, you can always use your phone.
  • Phone and charging cable – If you don’t have an international plan, you’ll need to choose whether to get an eSIM or a physical SIM card. The benefit of using an eSIM is you can keep your current SIM card in your phone (and won’t risk losing it) and some eSIMs provide coverage across multiple countries. If you’re doing either the Camino Frances or Camino Portugués, you can get a Europe eSIM so you won’t lose cell service when you cross into Spain. I recommend Airalo, which offers eSIMs for over 200 countries and is easy to set up. The downside is you’ll only get data – you won’t be able to call or text. If you prefer a physical SIM card, make sure you have an unlocked phone. Once you arrive, you can pick up a SIM at the airport or at any telecom store in town.
  • Portable battery charger – You’re going to be spending long days on the road, using your phone to take photos, play music, or help you navigate. Carrying a portable battery charger is a must so you won’t have to worry about your phone running out of power. Anker is my go-to for portable chargers. The Anker PowerCore 10000 is the size of a deck of cards and can charge your phone two to three times.
  • Headphones
  • Travel adapter – The EU uses plug types C and F, which have two round pins. If you’re from a country that uses a different plug type, you’ll need to bring a travel adapter. I’ve used this worldwide all-in-one universal travel adapter since 2017 and it hasn’t failed me yet.
  • Smartwatch or fitness tracker (optional)
  • Camera (optional)
  • Tablet or e-reader (optional)

Important documents

Passport, Camino de Santiago pilgrim credential, and Buen Camino app flatlay on a wood floor
  • Passport
  • Pilgrim credential – If you’ve ordered your pilgrim passport ahead of time, don’t forget to pack it. Otherwise, you can buy your pilgrim credential at the starting point of your Camino. To stay in public albergues, you’ll need to show your credential. You’ll also need to collect two stamps each day for the last 100 km before reaching Santiago de Compostela if you want the certificate of completion.
  • Camino mobile app or guidebook – A lot of pilgrims prefer to have a guidebook, but it adds some weight to your pack. While you can rip out pages as you go to lessen your load, I prefer using my phone to guide me. The best Camino de Santiago mobile apps are Camino Ninja and Buen Camino (Android and iOS).

Miscellaneous

  • Wallet – Don’t forget you’ll need a debit card for taking out cash. Public albergues and places in small towns usually only deal in cash.
  • Sleeping bag liner or sleeping bag – Public albergues are the cheapest type of accommodation on the Camino, but they also provide the bare minimum. You’ll get a disposable flat sheet and pillowcase, so you’ll need to bring either a sleeping bag liner or sleeping bag. In the summer, all you need is a liner. You can always layer up on clothes if you get a bit chilly at night. If you’re doing the Camino in the winter, bring a sleeping bag.
  • Ear plugs – Unless you plan on staying in private rooms the entire time, there’s a high chance you’ll have a snorer in your room. Find yourself a good set of ear plugs because getting enough sleep on the Camino is very important.
  • Reusable water bottle – Tap water is generally drinkable wherever you are on the Camino. You can fill up at the albergues, cafés, and restaurants. I recommend carrying at least 2 liters of water on you at all times. That amount should get you through hot days and long stretches without rest stops. If walking the Camino is part of a larger trip you’re doing, a collapsible water bottle like this one packs down very small when you don’t need it. When I did the Camino as part of my 7.5-month travels, I carried a plastic reusable bottle and a collapsible 2 liter one.
  • Packing cubes – Even though you’re not carrying a lot of things, packing cubes make a big difference. By keeping everything organized in your backpack, you’ll be able to quickly pack and unpack every day. I’ve been using the Amazon Basics 4 Piece Packing Travel Organizer Cubes Set since 2016, and they’re still going strong. They hold a lot, and I like how each cube has a handle so you can easily pull it out of your bag.
  • Rain cover for your backpack
  • Small shoulder bag, tote, or waistpack – Unless you plan on stuffing your wallet, passport, and phone into your pockets, you’ll want to have a small bag that you can put your stuff in when you go out in the evening.
  • Small first aid kit – Even small towns will have a pharmacy where you can get supplies, but it’s better to be prepared.
  • Carabiners or safety pins – It’s handy to be able to hang things off your backpack, like a water bottle or clothes that didn’t dry overnight.
  • Travel size pack of tissues – They also double as toilet paper in case you need it – just remember to not flush it!
  • A small rock or item to place on the Camino – One of the customs of the Camino de Santiago is to bring a rock from where you live and place it on the Camino. The rock represents your sins or burdens. By leaving it on your pilgrimage, you’re leaving those burdens, and the emotions associated with them, that you’ve been carrying behind. On the Camino Frances, pilgrims typically place their rocks at the Cruz de Ferro. That doesn’t mean you have to though. Place your rock wherever it feels right. On other routes, you’ll see rock piles in many different places. If this tradition doesn’t speak to you, there’s also no pressure to participate (I didn’t when I walked the Camino Portugués).
  • Ziplock bags or reusable silicone storage bags – Use them to keep your important documents dry and save leftover food. Bring a few and you’ll find a way to use them.
  • Hiking poles (optional) – Hiking poles are more helpful on some Camino routes than others. For example, the Camino del Norte is one of the more challenging routes because of its ups and downs. A hiking pole will help you manage the mountains and steep descents. To decide whether you should bring hiking poles, look at the elevation profile of your route and ask yourself whether you typically hike with poles. For the Camino Portugués, I didn’t use hiking poles.
  • Compeed (optional) – If you’re prone to blisters, Compeed is the best for taking care of them.
  • Eye mask (optional) – I didn’t find an eye mask necessary since lights are usually out by 9 or 10 PM in the albergues. If you decide to bring a buff, you can also use it as an eye mask.
  • Camping pillow (optional) – Private albergues will always provide a pillow. However, only some public albergues will have pillows. In those cases, I used my hoodie as a makeshift pillow. If you sleep best with a pillow though, bring a compressible one that packs down small or an inflatable pillow.
  • Journal and pen (optional)
  • Reusable utensils (optional) – If you plan on mostly packing your own meals, having a reusable fork, spoon, and knife is necessary. But if you plan on eating all your meals at cafés and restaurants (which is what I did), you don’t need this. If you’re doing the Camino for the first time and you’re not sure what your eating style is going to be, bring a reusable utensil anyways. They’re very light and small so it won’t make a difference in your bag.
  • Sewing kit (optional) – While I didn’t need a sewing kit, it’s useful to repair tears and pop blisters.
  • Permethrin spray (optional) – Bed bugs aren’t common on the Camino, but they do happen. I didn’t have time to spray all my stuff with permethrin before I left and I didn’t experience any bed bugs. But if you’d rather take all the precautions, get some permethrin spray and treat your bag and sleeping liner with it before you leave home.

More resources for the Camino de Santiago

Camino de Santiago packing list for women

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Camino Portuguese: Coastal vs. Central Route https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-portuguese-coastal-vs-central-route/ https://staging.flcchn.com/camino-portuguese-coastal-vs-central-route/#respond Sat, 06 May 2023 13:27:16 +0000 https://staging.flcchn.com/?p=1965 If you're deciding between the Camino Portuguese coastal and central routes, here are the pros and cons of each.

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So you’ve decided to walk the Portuguese Camino de Santiago (also known as the Camino Portugués). If you start from Porto or any stages before it, you’ll need to make a choice between taking the central or coastal route. As you probably guessed, the coastal route brings you to the Portuguese coast while the central route is entirely inland. Eventually, both routes converge in Redondela.

There are pros and cons to each. Let’s break them down so you can choose the one that fits your interests.

Central route

  • Distance: 242 km/150 miles
  • Terrain: Mountains, forests, farmland, roads, cobblestone
  • Duration: 10 – 12 days
Downhill road on the Portuguese Camino central route with the green hills of Spain in the background

Pros

Pass through historic towns: The central route is where you’ll find lots of history, including Roman roads and bridges. You’ll walk the same roads that Queen Elizabeth of Portugal did in the 1300s. And you’ll visit historically significant towns like Ponte de Lima, one of the oldest Portuguese villages.

More popular route: With more pilgrims choosing the central route over coastal, you’ll quickly meet new people and find walking buddies (if that’s what you want).

Lots of infrastructure for pilgrims: One of the benefits of choosing the more traveled route is better infrastructure. It’s well marked and there’s more accommodations and places to rest.

Cons

Lots of cobblestones and road walking: Since the central route passes through many towns, you’ll walk on a lot of roads. If you take on any long days over 28 km, expect to have tired feet.

Has a 400 m climb: The most challenging part of the central route is the 400 meter climb up Alto da Portela Grande de Labruja. It’s a dirt path filled with rocks, so take your time going up and watch your step.

It can get very hot: In the summer, temperatures in Portugal sometimes get up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit or 32 degrees Celsius. The shaded forests of the central route provide a nice respite from the sun on these days. But when you don’t have any shade out on the road, it’s a slog.

Albergues can fill up quickly: The downside of being the more popular route is you may find it difficult to find a bed in the albergue you want. It’s not quite the frantic bed race that the Camino Francés can be, but albergues do get full so either set off early in the morning or see if the albergue takes reservations. Luckily, there are plenty of accommodations along the central route, so you should never find yourself without a bed.

Who it’s best for

  • Fans of history and culture
  • Camino traditionalists
  • Pilgrims wanting a social experience or sense of community

Coastal route

  • Distance: 268 km/167 miles
  • Terrain: Coastline, beaches, boardwalks, roads
  • Duration: 12 – 14 days

Pros

Beautiful coastline scenery and beaches: Some of the best views on the Camino Portugués are found on the coastal route. It’s got cute seaside towns, white sand beaches, and peaceful forest trails.

Less hills: The coastal route is mostly flat with a few small hills. If you started your Camino in Lisbon, the coastal route is gonna be a breeze and your knees are going to thank you for the break.

Cooling sea breeze during the summer: The best time to walk the coastal route is during the summer, when there’s clear skies, sun, and a refreshing wind.

Fewer pilgrims: With fewer pilgrims, you’ll rarely be turned down by a full albergue. Even late arrivers will have a bed. And the coastal route is still plenty social. You’ll find pilgrims to talk to and walk alongside. But if you want more of a solo experience, there’s no better setting than walking alongside the ocean.

Spend even more time along the coast with the Senda Litoral variant: The Senda Litoral hugs the coast the entire way, while the coastal route bounces between running along the coast and bringing you a bit inland. The two overlap in some areas, so it’s easy to change up your scenery as you go.

Cobblestone road during golden hour in Caminha, Portugal

Cons

Takes one to two days longer: The coastal route is roughly 26 km/16 miles longer than the central route, so it’ll take most people at least one day longer to get to Santiago. You can also break up the distance between two days.

Rainy, windy, and cold during the winter: In the winter, the coastal route is a miserable experience. You’ll face forceful gusts of wind and rain, so make sure you pack the right clothes. If you want to enjoy your walk, go during summer or the few months before and after.

Less cafés and restaurants: There are some stretches of the route with few places to grab food or use the bathroom. And outside of the summer season, many places along the beach close down. You’ll need to plan accordingly. I recommend always carrying plenty of snacks, since there were some days where I’d walk 15 to 20 km before finding a place where I could get lunch.

Who it’s best for

  • Beach and ocean lovers
  • Walkers wanting to avoid steep hills
  • Pilgrims who have one or two extra days to spare

The best of both worlds: how to combine central and coastal routes

If you’re like me and want to experience both routes, you can do this by starting on the coastal route and then cutting in to the central route before they join in Redondela. There are two popular points where pilgrims cross over. I chose to switch over at Caminha and join the central route in Tui. The other place to do this is to leave the coastal route at Vila do Conde and join at São Pedro de Rates.

If you just want a taste of the coastal route, make the switch at Vila do Conde. You’ll get one or two days along the coast, depending on how much you want to walk each day.

If you prefer to spend more time by the ocean, switch at Caminha. This will give you four to five days by the coast and one or two days on the central route before you reach Redondela.

Additional resources for the Camino Portugués

Camino Portuguese Coastal vs. Central Route

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